Overview

Introduction

Paris, "The City of Light," has been written about, filmed and photographed countless times. Although it seems as if we all know Paris even before we see it, nothing compares to actually being there. Going to the top of the Eiffel Tower, walking along the Seine at dusk or sipping coffee at an elegant sidewalk cafe are quintessential Parisian experiences—and the wonder of it is that real life takes on an aura of magical make-believe, so that it seems just like being in the movies.

Whether you're in Paris for work or for fun, do as the Parisians do and enjoy yourself in this romantic city. For the art lover, the Musee d'Orsay and the Louvre offer priceless collections, while the designer shops and chic boutiques of Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore, Boulevard Saint-Germain and Avenue Montaigne tempt the serious shopper.

And for anyone who enjoys good food, Paris' restaurants, from inexpensive neighborhood bistros to the most refined and elegant gourmet establishments, will provide delightful meals.

Highlights

Sights—The Eiffel Tower; the Arc de Triomphe; La Basilique du Sacre-Coeur de Montmartre; cruise on the Seine on one of the sightseeing boats.

Museums—The art treasures of the Musee du Louvre; the famous impressionist paintings at the Musee d'Orsay and the Musee de l'Orangerie; the modern art of the Centre Pompidou; the timeless sculptures at the Musee Rodin; Louis XIV's Palace of Versailles, just outside Paris.

Memorable Meals—Dinner at Restaurant le Meurice Alain Ducasse; dining at a small neighborhood restaurant such as Au Passage; exquisite French steak at Le Severo; after-dinner coffee on the terrace of Cafe de Flore; a picnic along the banks of the Seine or in front of the Eiffel Tower.

Late Night—Sip champagne and cocktails at the trendy Pershing Hall; drink like expats F. Scott Fitgerald, Gloria Swanson and Ernest Hemingway at Harry's New York Bar; experience some of the best international jazz talent at New Morning.

Walks—From the Arc de Triomphe down the Champs-Elysees, through the Jardin des Tuileries to the Louvre; from Notre-Dame through the Latin Quarter to the Pantheon and through the Jardin du Luxembourg; along the Seine from Pont de l'Alma to Musee d'Orsay on the walkable river banks, crossing Ile de la Cite or Ile Saint-Louis; a midnight stroll along the romantic streets of Montmartre; along the Canal Saint-Martin at dusk, often referred to as one of Paris' most romantic spots.

Especially for Kids—Palais de la Decouverte, a children's science museum; La Menagerie, Paris' oldest zoo; Jardin d'Acclimatation, a 25-acre/10-hectare park in the Bois de Boulogne; the Jardin des Plantes with its small zoo.

Geography

Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements, or districts, which spiral outward clockwise from the center of the city. Knowing the arrondissements will help tremendously in navigating the city. For example, in an address with a Parisian postal code such as 75008 or 75018, the first numbers indicate Paris and the last two digits tell you the arrondissement (in this case, the 8th and 18th, respectively).

Along the Right Bank (Rive Droite)—that is, along the north bank of the Seine—lie the grand boulevards (such as the Champs-Elysees, in the 8th), stately facades featuring Haussmanian or art-nouveau architecture, the Arc de Triomphe, the Opera Garnier (9th) and the Louvre (1st).

Tucked away in the midst of all this grandeur are the trendy, winding streets of the Marais District (4th), where you can see several of Paris' oldest surviving buildings. Montmartre (18th), the northernmost area of the Right Bank, resembles a little village, with steep, cobblestoned streets, oft-photographed staircases and tiny, ivy-covered houses. The area around the Bastille (11th)—where the infamous prison once stood—has become one of the trendiest pockets of Paris, with numerous cafes and clubs, as well as barge restaurants on the refurbished Bassin de la Villette (19th).

Although the Left Bank (Rive Gauche) has the reputation for being slightly funkier than the Right, it is also very chic and home to some of the most expensive real estate in Paris. The Latin Quarter (5th) is always buzzing with activity, especially with students of Sorbonne University.

The cafes of Saint-Germain-des-Pres (6th) are experiencing renewed interest among followers of such philosophers as Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre, who once gathered there to debate existentialism. Montparnasse (14th), formerly the home of Picasso, Alberto Giacometti and other artists, is a bustling neighborhood adjacent to Saint-Germain-des-Pres. It's crowded with cinemas and famous brasseries.

La Defense refers to the cluster of skyscrapers on the northwestern edge of Paris that makes up the modern business district. The landmark of this quarter is La Grande Arche—a massive, futuristic arch of glass, granite and marble that serves as a modern echo of Napoleon's Arc de Triomphe.

Note: In this guide, the ordinal number in parentheses following each street address indicates the arrondissement in which an address is located. For example, (7th) refers to the 7th arrondissement. The nearest metro stop is given after the arrondissement. Also, in an address, don't be confused by the word bis after a street number. If you see 10-bis, for instance, it indicates the door or building next to No. 10.

History

Paris started out as a little village inhabited by a tribe of people known as the Parisii. The original settlement was located on an island in the Seine River that later became the Roman island-city of Lutetia; today it is Ile de la Cite, the site of Notre-Dame Cathedral.

Over the centuries, Paris expanded onto the right and left (north and south) banks of the river, and the city's defensive walls were pushed outward in ever-expanding concentric "circles" to accommodate the growing population; there are places in Paris where you can still see remnants of the first walls commissioned by Philippe Auguste in the 12th century. During the Middle Ages, Paris buzzed with the construction of Notre-Dame, and the swampland on the right bank was drained, creating the area now called the Marais, or "marsh."

The Middle Ages and Renaissance also brought to Paris some of France's most powerful kings, including Louis IX (or "St. Louis" as he was later known) and Henri IV, who was the first of the Bourbon kings to rule. Henri IV enacted the Edict of Nantes in 1598, which ended the religious wars in France between the Catholics and the Protestant minority.

In the 1660s, as France moved into the "Grand Century," Louis XIV—the Sun King—built Les Invalides in Paris as a home for aging and unwell soldiers, and the magnificent attached domed chapel called L'Eglise Saint-Louis des Invalides. He also ordered the expansion of the Palace of Versailles, which had been a relatively modest royal retreat, into a formidable palace. He moved the court from Paris to Versailles to escape rising unrest in the Paris streets.

Under Louis XVI and his queen, Marie Antoinette, French subjects rose up and started the French Revolution in 1789 (by tearing down the infamous Bastille prison), which brought the executions of thousands of people by guillotine—the king and queen among them—in 1793.

After the fervor of the revolution died down, Napoleon Bonaparte ruled France as emperor (after a coup d'etat in 1799) until his final defeat at Waterloo in 1815. Under Napoleon's rule, Paris gained some impressive monuments, including the Arc de Triomphe, and France gained the Napoleonic Code of law. In 1861, Napoleon's body was transferred from St. Helena and laid to rest in a monumental tomb under the Dome of Les Invalides.

A series of short-lived empires followed the Napoleonic era, but they were replaced by the Third French Republic in 1870 (which remained in place until Hitler's army marched into Paris in 1940). The avenues and broad boulevards that have come to symbolize the city date from 19th-century urban planner Baron Haussmann, who carved them out of the winding medieval districts. (The wider streets not only looked impressive, but they also could support rapid troop deployment in case of civil rebellion.)

The late 19th century ushered in France's richest artistic period in centuries, with the impressionist and postimpressionist movements. The belle epoque, the period of fine and peaceful years before the outbreak of the First World War, also coincided with art nouveau, an art movement that spawned the famous Guimard metro entrances. Renoir, Monet, Degas, Manet and Toulouse-Lautrec all lived or worked in the city during the late 19th century, and Gustave Eiffel oversaw the construction of what would become Paris' most-celebrated landmark, originally built as a temporary structure for the 1889 Universal Exposition.

The period of World War I cast a dark shadow over Paris and all of Europe, but the city rebounded in the 1920s and 1930s during the ebullient Jazz Age. Paris became home to such performers and writers as Josephine Baker and Ernest Hemingway, as well as many painters, including Henri Matisse and Pablo Picasso.

During World War II, Paris was occupied by the German army, and resistance fighters working with the French government in exile were pitted against sympathizers of the so-called Vichy government.

Today, as throughout its history, Paris is one of Europe's most important artistic, political, cultural, educational and commercial centers. There are plenty of monumental contemporary landmarks in the city, too: the pyramid at the Louvre, the Pompidou Center and the stunning Bibliotheque Nationale are prominent examples.

Paris is a city in constant flux, with many new faces, styles, ethnic groups and different religious persuasions, but it is also a city firmly rooted in its traditions. It is this constant pull between old and new that makes it such a vibrant and endlessly fascinating place to visit.

Potpourri

When the Eiffel Tower was unveiled at the 1889 Paris Exhibition, there were many protests about the avant-garde structure. But 2 million people still managed to climb it that year, solidifying it as a cornerstone of Paris architecture.

The Latin Quarter (the area on the Left Bank surrounding the Sorbonne University) got its name because it was the first center of higher learning in France during the Middle Ages, a time when scholars did all their studies in Latin.

The construction of Notre-Dame Cathedral took more than 170 years to complete. It contains the largest pipe organ in France. In the late 1990s, Parisian officials decided to clean the sooty facade of the church. High-powered lasers were used to burn off the outside grime. The steeple was left with the dirt on it to remind everyone of what it used to look like.

When the Pere Lachaise Cemetery opened in 1804, it didn't have any customers at first as people thought it was too far from the city center. Someone had the bright idea of transferring the bodies of Abelard and Heloise, the famous medieval lovers, and it has been a tourist attraction and busy cemetery ever since.

Paris' nickname as the City of Light has nothing to do with nature's light; it was one of the first cities to implement gas lamp street lights in the early 1800s. The nickname also refers to the artists and intellectuals who flocked there, making it a city of enlightenment.

Despite its name, Pont Neuf (the New Bridge) is the oldest surviving Seine bridge of Paris. It was built between 1578 and 1607. The most recent Seine bridge is the pedestrian-only Passerelle Simone de Beauvoir, which opened in 2006.

Paris has been (and continues to be) the backdrop of many famous movies, ranging from An American in Paris (1951) and the erotic Last Tango in Paris (1972) to The Da Vinci Code (2006), Amelie (2001), Paris Je T'aime (2006) and Midnight in Paris (2011). Even Disney got into the act with 2007's popular Ratatouille.

See & Do

Sightseeing

Paris inspires grandeur. From Napoleon's imposing Arc de Triomphe to Eiffel's pioneering tower and even to the whimsical Centre Pompidou, every notable landmark seems to have monumental proportions. But Paris has delights of a smaller, quieter nature; manicured parks and flower gardens give a green backdrop and a serene beauty to the broad avenues, soaring cathedrals and marble monuments.

On the Left Bank, the 5th arrondissement neighborhood around the famed Sorbonne University, is the Latin Quarter. The Quarter has always had an intellectual, international, bohemian character because of the influx of students who go to study in Paris from all over the world. Its winding streets offer restaurants that cater to almost every budget, from student-friendly cafes to the trendier restaurants of Saint-Germain. Alternately, you can take a stroll in Ernest Hemingway's neighborhood on the popular Rue Mouffetard.

Also on the Left Bank are the city's most famous domes: the gilded Hotel des Invalides—a military museum that includes Napoleon's tomb—and the colonnaded Pantheon, the final resting place of many French notables. To the west is the Eiffel Tower, originally built as a "temporary" exhibit as part of the 1889 Universal Exposition to commemorate the centennial of the French Revolution.

From the Left Bank, cross Pont Neuf to Ile de la Cite with its two Gothic masterpieces, Sainte-Chapelle (a church with extraordinary stained-glass windows) and Notre-Dame Cathedral (damaged in a fire in 2019, its once impressive facade is under ongoing renovation).

On the Right Bank, the Centre Georges Pompidou (also known as Beaubourg), is one of the world's most novel structures with its "inside-out" colorful architecture; it also houses the city's best collection of modern art. A short walk to the east brings you to the national museum of Paris' most famous artist-in-residence, Pablo Picasso. A bit farther to the north, set atop the hill of Montmartre, are the neighborhood's lovely cemetery and the white-domed splendor of Sacre-Coeur.

In the very center of the Right Bank, along the river, is the Louvre, once the residence of French kings (until Louis XIV moved the royal court to his splendid new palace at Versailles). The Louvre is a massive museum housing many of the greatest works of art from ancient times through the 19th century—including three famous women: Venus de Milo, the Winged Victory of Samothrace and Leonardo da Vinci's mysterious Mona Lisa—and is impossible to digest in one visit.

The Place de la Concorde, site of beheadings by guillotine during the French Revolution and tank duels during World War II, is at the opposite end of the Tuileries Gardens from the Louvre. The 3,300-year-old Obelisk of Luxor at its center was a gift from Egyptian viceroy Muhammad Ali to Louis Philippe in 1829; it has dominated the square ever since. Connecting the Place de la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe, which commemorates the victories of Napoleon, is the magnificent Avenue des Champs-Elysees, lined with shops, showrooms, sidewalk cafes and cinemas.

When you tire of monuments, visit the Rodin Museum, the dazzling Musee d'Orsay (19th-century and impressionist art) and the Cluny Museum (from Roman baths to medieval art, including the 15th-century tapestry series The Lady and the Unicorn). And when you're ready to relax, take an unabashedly touristy trip down the Seine on the bateaux mouches (sightseeing boats), have a seat on the terrasse of any nearby cafe while you enjoy an espresso or apero, or just pull up a chair and people-watch like a real Parisian in the beautifully manicured Luxembourg or Tuileries gardens.

Recreation

Even in this dense urban setting, you can find many ways to work out—indoors in a health or sports club, or outdoors in one of the many parks. Paris is filled with parks for lovers, children, joggers and skaters.

The Paris Plages, a riverside "beach" set up along the Seine every summer, comes complete with sand and beach umbrellas.

Tennis and indoor swimming are available, and Disneyland Paris has its own golf course. You can bike throughout central Paris or in such places as Versailles, Fontainebleau or the Bois de Boulogne. The city's Velib bikes also provide easy and affordable short-term cycling options. Bicycling outside of Paris is enjoyable because the countryside is attractive and flat.

Performing Arts

Surveying the music, stage and film offerings in the local publications is much like studying the menu in one of the best Parisian bistros: The variety is dazzling, and the individual offerings are rich. Many of the top arts venues in the city, like their culinary counterparts, have history and decor that are no less stunning than the productions they play host to.

The opera, ballet and symphony are all world-class. Good places to look for less-expensive concerts include a number of churches, such as the American Cathedral, Eglise Saint-Louis-en-l'Ile and Sainte-Chapelle (an especially sublime setting), and the Louvre auditorium. The Paris Opera Company holds performances at the beaux-arts Opera Garnier and its modern counterpart, the Opera Bastille: Either venue is worth an evening out, or at least a peek inside. And the Peniche Opera, in the Bassin de la Villette, offers charming light opera and concerts.

Travelers more interested in big-ticket pop or rock 'n' roll concerts should check the schedule of Accor Arena, an enormous venue in eastern Paris. The Comedie Francaise continues to attract the top French talent in acting and directing.

Parisians are ardent film buffs, so hundreds of movies are always playing, many of them revivals and classics. Some of the tiny Left Bank theaters host weeklong series devoted to films of bygone eras, as does the Pompidou Center. The French tend to prefer their English-language films dubbed into French. When checking listings for films in English, look for the initials "VO." This means version originale and indicates that the film is not dubbed, but will have French subtitles.

The Time Out website (https://www.timeout.fr/paris) provides listings of films, as well as music, theater and opera listings.

L'Officiel des Spectacles also has weekly listings (https://www.offi.fr). The listings in Paris Voice are not quite as extensive, but they are in English (http://parisvoice.com). You can also check movie listings online at https://www.allocine.fr.

Spectator Sports

The biggest venue for soccer and other sporting events is the Stade de France in northern Paris. You can also attend rugby and soccer games at Parc des Princes. Professional soccer is fun to watch—but be aware that the fans can be unruly.

Less troublesome is the sport of rugby: Matches are played in Stade de France and Parc des Princes.

Tennis tournaments, including the French Open (late May), are held at Roland Garros Stadium.

Competitions for the 2024 Olympic Games will take place in a variety of stadiums throughout Paris and the surrounding area. For more information about Paris 2024, visit https://olympics.com.

Shopping

Paris is world-renowned for its perfume, wine, cheese, chocolate, haute couture, fine jewelry and antiques. But visitors should also be aware that the city offers some excellent, high-end manufactured goods, including Limoges porcelain, Lalique crystal, enamel, hand-blown glass and cookware. Discriminating palates will also want to seek out local cognacs, mustards and, of course, foie gras.

From the sophisticated Saint-Honore area to the funky and eclectic Marais, Paris has a shopping district to suit everyone's taste. In an era of malls, this city still offers thousands of intimate specialty shops, as well as large department stores. For haute couture, head for the 8th arrondissement, particularly Avenue Montaigne or Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. Many shops on Rue Royale specialize in high-quality jewelry. Place Vendome in the neighboring 1st arrondissement is home to more fine jewelers, including Cartier, Boucheron and Van Cleef & Arpels.

In the Marais (the 3rd and 4th arrondissements), chic boutiques, kosher butchers and traditional bakeries thrive side by side along winding medieval streets. Start with Rue des Francs-Bourgeois and plan for a busy afternoon (this is one area where more shops tend to stay open on Sunday; it's popular on the weekend). There's a fantastic selection of upmarket clothes and shoe shops on the Left Bank in the Saint-Germain neighborhood. One of the oldest open-air food markets of Paris is held in Place d'Aligre (12th arrondissement) off Rue de Cotte.

The famed Marche aux Puces (Flea Market) at Saint Ouen and Porte de Clignancourt is not the bargain-hunter's paradise it once was. You can still find interesting things there, but prices have gone up, and there are more stalls selling clothes and name-brand athletic shoes. (Note: You need to walk past the first block of temporary stalls to get to the permanent stalls, which have more of the antiques and interesting finds.) Another flea and antiques market (brocante in French) to try is Vanves (14th arrondissement). Always take small bills and coins: It's easier both for vendors to make change and for you to haggle.

Other fascinating markets include the outdoor food markets held each week in every arrondissement, the flower markets on Ile de la Cite, and the green bouquinistes full of old books, prints and maps along both banks of the Seine. (Look especially on the Quai du Louvre and the Quai de la Megisserie on the Right Bank, and the Quai des Grands Augustins and Quai Malaquais on the Left Bank.) For fresh produce, meats and cheeses, head to any outdoor market; the Marche Bastille (11th arrondissement, open Thursday and Sunday) is especially large and popular.

Keep in mind that the formality of French life extends to shopping customs. Don't be surprised if you get a dirty look from a sales clerk if you enter a store and begin handling everything. To avoid this, try to do as the locals do. On entering a shop, greet a clerk or shop assistant and any customers with "Bonjour, Monsieur" or "Bonjour, Madame" then ask for assistance—you're more likely to receive a smile and the clerk's undivided attention with this show of manners. And remember, the polite way to inquire if someone speaks English is to ask it in French: "Parlez-vous Anglais?" Upon leaving, be sure to offer an "Au revoir, Monsieur/Madame." The French consider it impolite to try and slip out of the store without announcing your departure and thanking them (even if they didn't directly help you).

Shopping Hours: Generally, shops are open Monday-Saturday 10 am-6:30 pm. Food stores may open earlier. Most stores close on Sunday, and some on Monday. Many smaller shops stay open until 7 or 8 pm. Butcher shops, fish markets, and fruit and vegetable stands often close after lunch (around 1-4 pm) and then reopen until 7 or 8 pm; many close Sunday afternoon and all day Monday. Small grocery shops may stay open to 10 or 11 pm.

In August, many Parisians go on vacation, especially to the seaside in the south. As a result, many medium- and small-sized businesses and restaurants shut down entirely for the month, or at least for two or three weeks. Also, many small shops close over Easter for up to a week. The larger and more tourist-oriented a store, the better chance that it will remain open.

Itinerary

Dining

Dining Overview

Wonderful, rich food is one of France's gifts to the world, and the French take cooking very seriously. A slice of quiche from a small bistro will taste better than any you've had at home. This is a city where good chefs attain celebrity status and even become household names.

There are thousands of restaurants in Paris, from French to Peruvian to Vietnamese to Senegalese, so choosing a few of the best is difficult. Although it's a good idea to try as many different cuisines as possible, French cuisine is what really shines in Paris. You will find a lot of variety in the national cuisine: Authentic French cooking can be refined or hearty.

Wherever you go, be sure to try the wine, butter, chocolate, coffee, baguettes, croissants, pastries, jams, cheeses (more than 350 kinds), oysters and truffles. Most restaurants have a menu du jour (menu of the day). Try to order from this menu if you can: The food will likely be the freshest, the most seasonal and the the most reasonably priced.

When you tire of walking, sit down at the nearest sidewalk cafe, not only for refreshment but also to people-watch. The simple act of enjoying drinks on the terrace is a Parisian way of life. Just remember that in some restaurants and cafes, you're charged more if you sit out on the terrace than if you stand at the bar or sit at a table inside. The terrace is also where smokers sit, so keep this in mind if cigarette smoke bothers you.

Parisians seldom eat breakfast in restaurants. Patisseries (pastry shops) and boulangeries (bakeries) sell croissants and other breads and pastries, or you can buy coffee and a croissant in a cafe. Brunch has become increasingly popular and is being served at more and more restaurants, but it is still overpriced. Lunch, which is the main meal for many of the French, is generally served between noon and 2 pm. If you wait any later, you may well go hungry. If you miss the lunch seating, buy a sandwich or hot panini from the nearest bakery, or meats and cheeses from a deli or fromagerie, and have an impromptu picnic on a park bench.

Dinner is served from 7 pm on, but Parisians eat late, often sitting down to dinner at 9 pm or even later. If you like to dine early, seek out a brasserie, which offers continuous service. Another thing to consider is that many restaurants close during August, the month when many Parisians take their vacations. If you are planning a special meal at that time of year, be sure to call ahead.

Drinking well with your meals is considered not only a privilege but a right. Consequently, good wines are not always expensive (although you can certainly pay a fortune for a rare or exceptional bottle if you are so inclined). Restaurant proprietors take pride in choosing their house wines, often serving them in unlabeled carafes, so those tend to be good choices if you're looking for modest wines to accompany your meals.

If, on the other hand, you want to indulge in something special, you'll be happy to know that the best wines on the menu are often the best bargains, as well. French restaurateurs tend to triple the price of their table wines, or vins ordinaires, and double the price of their midrange grands ordinaires. For their best vintages and grands crus, restaurants often content themselves with as little as a 20% markup.

In a really fine restaurant, you'll want to follow the national practice of choosing a different wine to accompany each dish, saving the best red wine for the cheese course. Because of the popularity of this practice, many restaurants offer excellent wines by the glass or the half bottle.

Many of the wines on Parisian menus will be from the country's two legendary wine-growing regions, Burgundy (known in France as Bourgogne) and Bordeaux. Burgundies, which tend to be made from pinot noir (red) or chardonnay (white) grapes, tend to be full and rich if red, and full-bodied and round if white. Wines from Bordeaux are usually blends of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot grapes (both red), making them fruitier than their burgundy counterparts.

Keep in mind that most haute-cuisine restaurants require a jacket for men, and in general, Parisians tend to dress up for dinner. Ask when making a reservation, if you're not sure what to wear.

Smoking is banned everywhere indoors in France, but smokers are still allowed to light up on the outdoor terraces.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, including tax and service charge but not including drinks: $ = less than 20 euros; $$ = 20 euros-49 euros; $$$ = 50 euros-89 euros; $$$$ = 90 euros-149 euros; and $$$$$ = more than 150 euros.

Local & Regional

Security

Etiquette

It is sometimes said that the predominant religion in France is French. This is especially true in Paris. The capital is rightfully proud of its culture, and visitors who exhibit an understanding of the country's lifestyle and customs will be given more consideration than those who don't.

Appointments—Schedule business meetings well in advance. Punctuality is expected, but be prepared for Parisians to arrive late. It is not necessary to have your business cards translated into French.

Personal Introductions—Handshakes are the common form of greeting. Eye contact should be direct. Use professional titles or standard French titles (monsieur, madame, mademoiselle) along with the person's last name. Don't use a person's first name until instructed to do so. Les bises, or "air kisses," as a greeting generally occur only among people you've already met; however, among the younger generation it is not uncommon to bises someone you have just met in casual circumstances. As a visitor, participate only if your host initiates the action. Do not expect your smile to be reciprocated: Parisians do not always smile easily, and are wary of those who smile too readily.

Negotiating—The French are formal in their business dealings, but the conversation may take a winding path and at times may dwell on minutiae. Do not let this confuse or frustrate you. Decisions are typically made very deliberately and after consultation with superiors. Junior executives typically do not have a great deal of authority. The French tend to avoid the subject of money in meetings, although it is by no means taboo. It shouldn't, however, be the first item on the agenda.

Business Entertaining—Business lunches are common and often extended in duration—two to three hours is not uncommon. Keep your hands on the table while dining. Note: The French typically place their bread on the table rather than on their dinner plates; no one seems to worry about the crumbs.

Body Language—The French converse at a somewhat closer distance than is common in North America. It is not uncommon for polite conversational touching to occur. "Thumbs up" means "OK"; it can also be the signal that you want "one" of something, such as a movie ticket. Posture is important, as is the quality of your clothing. Chewing gum in public is considered ill-mannered.

Business Gift Giving—Though the practice is not typical, tasteful gifts are appreciated. They are usually given only after a relationship is relatively well-established.

Conversation—If you speak French, do so. If you do not, learn a few polite phrases—and learn them well. Do not be offended if your French pronunciation is corrected. Good topics are food, wine and art. Be careful not to inadvertently demean any aspect of French culture, especially in comparison with that of the U.S. Parisians are a private people. Personal questions are considered poor form. Privacy extends to the audible level of conversation. The French tend to speak quietly; if you observe a group of people speaking loudly in public, chances are they aren't French.

Other Information—Office doors are typically kept closed: Knock before entering. The French pride themselves on their lifestyle. It is not unusual for six weeks of every year to be given over to vacation, and the workweek consists of 35 hours. Still, French society's productivity is on a par with or even better than that of other developed nations.

On the metro, certain seats fold up and down. If you are sitting in one of these seats and your carriage begins to get crowded, it is polite to get up to make more standing room. People who continue to sit in packed metro cars will get many glares and may even be reprimanded by strangers.

Personal Safety

Although Paris is relatively safe, purse snatchers and pickpockets are as prevalent as in any large city, especially in crowded tourist areas such as the Champs-Elysees, Opera and Montmartre. Keep wallets in front pants pockets only, never in back pockets, and carry purses with straps that can be worn across the body and zippers to close the main compartment.

Always be attentive in the metro, especially if the train is crowded. The heavily traveled Line 1 is a favorite of pickpockets. If you are wearing a backpack or backpack-style purse, take it off before entering the train and hold it in front of you. Fanny packs should be avoided altogether.

Use special care if you venture into the Barbes-Rouchechouart and Porte de Pantin areas, especially at night. Although Belleville is a fascinating part of Paris, parts of it can be dicey after dark. The same holds true for the large markets and Les Halles, especially the area around Rue Saint-Denis (the traditional streetwalker zone of Paris), and La Defense, the modern business district. La Defense is sparsely populated at night, so best to go during daylight hours if you have to be in the area.

Parks such as the Bois de Boulogne and the Bois de Vincennes should be avoided at night. There are some areas that should be avoided completely, but they are in suburban neighborhoods that visitors have little or no reason to visit, except for the early Gothic cathedral of Saint-Denis, which is safely accessible by RER trains.

Women should be aware of their surroundings, especially at night. Avoid eye contact with strangers and do not wear headphones or be distracted by using your phone while walking.

Avoid walking around areas you are not familiar with late at night or after drinking, as getting mugged for just a cell phone can happen.

Homeless people in Paris are generally harmless; however, some individuals can be aggressive, so it is best to ignore them if you are spoken to. Some will also ask you for money as a ruse to steal something else while your attention is diverted. Always keep a hand or eye on your valuables when a stranger approaches you.

Be careful when you withdraw money from an ATM, especially in areas such as Montmartre, Opera and Champs-Elysees. There have been occurrences of groups of children or thieves who distract both locals and tourists while they are withdrawing cash. Once you enter your PIN, they attempt to make you look away from the screen, and another person will select a certain amount of money to withdraw, then run away with the cash.

For more on scams to avoid on while in Paris, refer to Safety Scouts, a scam-awareness project created by a former Paris police officer. Each video runs under one minute and explains what you should watch out for to avoid becoming the victim of a scam. https://www.youtube.com/c/safetyscouts.

Emergency Numbers: French speakers can dial 17 for the police; 18 for the fire department; 15 for medical emergencies (SAMU). Dial 112 if calling from a mobile phone, where you can ask to be connected to an English-speaking operator. English speakers can also call the SOS HELP crisis line at 1-4621-4646 or their embassy.

For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

Health

France has excellent medical and dental facilities. The pharmacies are first-rate, and pharmacists are able to give advice and medication if you tell them your symptoms. Many sell herbal and alternative-medicine treatments as well as standard medications. Some medications from your own country may not be available, however, so take along your own supply. Also, before you leave home, be sure that your health insurance covers you overseas; otherwise, an emergency appendicitis could cost you. That said, French healthcare is reasonably priced, and any emergency medical care will still cost far less than in the U.S.

All pharmacies are designated by a green-neon cross, and most are open Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-8 pm. They all post on their doors a list of pharmacies that are open Sunday or after hours. A full list of 24-hour pharmacies can be found online. https://parisjetaime.com/eng/article/night-pharmacy-a023.

SOS Medicins provides on-call doctors for nonurgent medical care, 24 hours a day. They also make house calls (phone 1-4707-7777; https://www.sosmedecins.fr). The dentists at SOS Dentistes are available around the clock on weekends and on weekdays during school vacations (phone 1-4337-5100; http://www.sos-dentaire.com). Most of these health-care professionals have at least a basic understanding of English.

The American Hospital in Paris has a 24-hour emergency hotline with bilingual doctors and nurses. 63 Blvd. Victor Hugo, Neuilly. Phone 1-4641-2525. https://www.american-hospital.org.

No unusual health risks exist in France. However, because of the close contact you'll have with the many tourists and locals, you may find yourself with a cold once you arrive. Be warned that France has one of the highest numbers of AIDS cases in Europe, so unprotected sex is a high-risk activity. Condoms (preservatifs) are available at pharmacies and at dispensers near them (and also in many metro stations).

Though many French people choose to drink bottled water, tap water is safe to drink throughout the city. In a growing effort to be more eco-conscious, there are also public fountains around town where you can fill up your water bottle or take a sip. Food sold by street vendors is generally safe to eat.

In case of emergency, the best thing to do is to go to the closest pharmacy, if possible. The staff will tell you where to go, which doctor to call or the closest hospital you can reach. If it's a serious emergency, call the fire department (dial 18).

For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

Facts

Dos & Don'ts

Do remember that France can be quite bureaucratic at times: Standing in line or waiting to for your turn can be frustrating. Take the opportunity to focus on things that are new and interesting, and relax.

Do learn a few French phrases: Bonjour (pronounced BON-zhoor) means hello or good morning; a bientot (pronounced a bee-yen-TOE) means see you soon; au revoir (pronounced OH-vwahr) means goodbye; and merci (pronounced mare-SEE) means thank you.

Do greet shopkeepers or strangers with "bonjour, Monsieur" or "bonjour, Madame". Also remember that French people are not generally on a first-name basis with strangers, especially in business or other formal situations.

Do take some time to just walk around the city without any specific destination. Paris is a very walkable city and you may be pleasantly surprised by what you run into.

Don't change metro lines at the Chatelet or Montparnasse stations (if you can avoid it), as you may be in for a very long walk.

Do talk quietly on the phone and in person. Parisians are very private and enjoy quiet in public places such as trains, buses, parks and restaurants. If you need to make a call, go outside or into designated areas or hallways to avoid disturbing others with your conversation.

Do use Line 6 of the metro, which partly runs above ground. You will enjoy a great view of the Eiffel Tower from the bridge Bir-Hakeim (close to metro station Bir-Hakeim).

Do enjoy the aerial views of Paris, not just from the Eiffel Tower, but also from the Tour Montparnasse (686 ft/209 m), the rooftop bar at Hotel Concorde La Fayette (449 ft/137 m), the Grande Arche de la Defense (361 ft/110 m), Sacre Coeur (272 ft/83 m) and from the Arc de Triomphe (164 ft/50 m). Other great viewing spots include the Pantheon, the roof terraces of the Galeries Lafayette and Printemps stores, the upper floor of the Centre Pompidou and the roof terrace of the restaurant in the Institut du Monde Arabe.

Do avoid breakfast at cheaper hotels; it is usually overpriced and of poor quality. Instead, opt for a fluffy, fresh croissant and a cafe au lait in a nearby cafe or, better yet, from a boulangerie (bakery).

Do remember when dining in France that the "carte" is the menu, while "menu" means a fixed-price meal consisting of a starter, main course and/or dessert. An "entree" is the appetizer or starter, not the main course (which is called the "plat"), and the cheese course comes before dessert. Try out new food on French menus by asking for the chef's plat du jour.

Don't smoke in bars, restaurants, discos, metro stations and most indoor public places. It is illegal to do so throughout France, and you may be fined.

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: Citizens of Australia, Canada, the U.K. and the U.S. need a passport. Children must travel on separate passports. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure.

Population: 2,244,000.

Languages: French.

Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic, Protestant), although other major religions are represented. Secularism is also on the rise in France.

Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts. A standard European plug with two rounded prongs will fit most outlets. If you need a transformer or an adapter for your plug, take it along with you.

Telephone Codes: 33, country code; 1, city code;

Money

Weather

Paris generally has a moderate climate. In winter, temperatures can dip below freezing, but they usually stay around 45 F/7 C. Often winter is wet and gray, although the rare snowfall disappears as soon as it hits the ground.

Summer mornings tend to be cool (sometimes requiring a sweater), but afternoons get warm. A few summer days get hot (80-90 F/26-32 C). Every so often, summer brings a canicule (heat wave) so check that your accommodations have air-conditioning; most do, but some smaller ones may not. Dress warmly in winter and take along a sweater or light jacket in summer.

Rainfall is more frequent in the winter months, but it can (and often does) rain in Paris at any time of year, so it's always a good idea to pack an umbrella. The best time to visit is is April-June, or in the cool fall months after the tourist season is over. Most Parisians go on vacation in August, so many shops and restaurants may be closed then, and services may be limited as well.

What to Wear

Parisians are fashion-conscious. Their style is best described as "casual chic"—informal yet sophisticated and never sloppy. Jeans are acceptable at many restaurants, but shorts or flip-flops will raise eyebrows (cropped jeans or pants are usually fine for women). Many Parisians dress in black year-round.

In contrast to travelers who cherish their comfort clothes, few Parisians would be caught dead stepping out the door in a jogging suit and running shoes, even for shopping or lunch; they save the workout gear for workouts. Avoid looking like a clueless tourist and leave the fanny pack at home; a smart across-the-body shoulder bag will help you blend in with the locals.

If you're in Paris on business, you'll find that in some fields, such as television, journalism and publishing, jeans are acceptable. However, don't lean toward informal dress unless you're absolutely certain it's appropriate. In a business setting, it can do you more harm than you might imagine. In traditional business settings, men should wear suits and ties, and women suits or skirts.

Transportation

The city's public transportation is excellent. The metro (subway system) is reliable and efficient, as are the buses (which afford you a view of the city en route). Two useful smartphone applications to help you navigate the public transportation system include the official RATP app and CityMapper.

But Paris is also a walking city, and the best maps to help you find your way are Paris Par Arrondissement and Paris Pratique, which are sold in bookstores and at most newsstands. These compact city guides contain every street, passage, courtyard and dead end in Paris, both by alphabetical listing and by map. They will help you easily navigate what can sometimes seem a frustratingly complicated city.

Walkers should note that cars do not always give way to pedestrians on marked pedestrian crossings. If you dare, stare drivers down and start walking: They will stop. Even if you have a green light indicating you can cross, check beforehand—a flashing-arrow system for certain lanes of traffic allows some cars to pass on a red light.