Overview

Introduction

Lima, Peru, is a dynamic, vibrant city full of contrasts. Modern skyscrapers stand beside pre-Incan pyramids that cover entire city blocks. The City of Kings was formerly just a stopover en route to the tourist mecca of Cusco and the Incan ruins of Machu Picchu, but visitors to Lima are now spending more and more time soaking up the cosmopolitan atmosphere in Peru's capital city, where fine museums and world-class dining combine with thousands of years of history.

Whether you are shopping in designer boutiques and posh malls, partying until dawn in a nightclub facing the Pacific, or sampling seafood in the city's best cevicherias, there is something for almost everyone in Lima.

Highlights

Sights—The sights of Lima's colonial past, including the Historic Center (a UNESCO World Heritage site) and Barrio Chino (Chinatown); the ossuary, convent and architecture at the Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco; the changing of the guards at the Government Palace; the cliff-side bohemian neighborhood of Barranco.

Museums—Pre-Columbian artifacts at the Museo Arqueologico Rafael Larco Herrera; a chronological investigation of Peruvian history at the Museo de la Nacion; art from pre-Incan to modern times at the Museo de Arte de Lima (MALI); authentic Incan gold at the Museo Oro del Peru.

Memorable Meals—Stunning pyramid views from Huaca Pucllana Restaurant; Gaston Acurio's trendy criollo dishes at Panchita; novo-Peruvian delicacies at Malabar.

Late Night—The city's best nightclubs at Larcomar Shopping Center; dinner and drinks at a pena (folk-music club) downtown; craft beer and live music in Barranco.

Walks—From Barranco's main plaza to the Pacific; through Colonial Lima; the seaside malecon in Miraflores; Parque El Olivar in San Isidro.

Especially for Kids—Learning about Peruvian wildlife at Parque de las Leyendas; marine animals on the Islas Palominos; the beaches of La Costa Verde.

Geography

Lima sits in the middle of the coast of Peru in the Chillon, Rimac and Lurin river valleys. The area is a desert sprinkled with small mountains that are now the sites of some of Lima's urban sprawl. Parts of the city sit on a cliff that overlooks the Pacific. A wide, sandy area follows the shoreline and is home to beaches, roads and restaurants.

Neighborhoods sprawl out in every direction from the colonial center. Most of the important neighborhoods border the coastline or sit not far from it. In the far north is Callao, which is actually a separate city and is home to the airport and cruise ship terminal. Most other tourist-oriented areas sit south of the center, including Pueblo Libre, San Isidro, Miraflores, Barranco and Chorrillos.

History

After the Spanish gained control of the Inca empire, they moved down from the Andes to build a capital on the coast: Lima was founded by Francisco Pizarro on 18 January 1535. At the time, small populations of native people were already living in fishing and farming settlements in the area. They had only been recently conquered by the Incas, however, and so were indifferent to the arrival of the Spanish.

The city became a Spanish capital in South America and one of the wealthiest cities on the continent. The nearby port of Callao became the point of export for Inca gold, Potosi silver and other goods that were being exploited in the Andes. Thus, it became a target for pirates, who sank dozens of Spanish galleons and frequently attacked the port. It's possible to see the remains of the defensive wall that Spaniards built in hopes of protecting their treasure.

Wide-scale trade stretched across the globe in the 18th century, and the city grew significantly. An earthquake in 1746 nearly destroyed the city, but it was soon rebuilt using African slave labor. Growth was slowed after independence was declared in 1821, but increased dramatically several decades later when the influx of capital from the guano boom allowed the city to expand. (Guano is nitrate-rich seabird droppings used for fertilizer.) The boom ended with the War of the Pacific (1879-83), when Peru lost some nitrate-rich areas to Chile.

The population ballooned in the 20th century as laborers moved down from the Andes to find work, setting up shanty towns around Lima, called pueblos jovenes. During the 1980s and '90s, terrorist groups from the Andes made Lima one of their targets, and the city saw numerous small bombings, until the major terrorist leaders were captured in 1992. The eradication of terrorism in the mid-1990s culminated with scandals involving Vladimiro Montesinos, the Peruvian chief of intelligence; President Alberto Fujimori fled the country to Japan before criminal charges could be brought against him.

In 2001, Alejandro Toledo was the first indigenous person to be elected president in Peru (or any Andean nation). His term was economically unpopular, and in 2006 conservative Alan Garcia, whose first term in office in the 1980s was disastrous, followed him. His later term was far more successful and the economy expanded rapidly. However, social conflicts resulting in several clashes between indigenous protestors and security forces marred his presidency.

In 2011, Ollanta Moises Humala Tasso, a center-left candidate and a former military officer, replaced Garcia, winning a run-off vote against his opponent, Keiko Fujimori, the daughter of the disgraced and imprisoned former president. Humala promised social reforms to balance the economic development and foreign investment, but faced ongoing criticism over land rights and sustainability, as well as complaints from detractors and protestors who believe he merely followed the path of Alan Garcia.

Pedro Pablo Kuczynski was elected president of Peru in 2016. In 2018, Kuczynski resigned amid accusations of corruption. He was succeeded by Martin Vizcarra, whose administration focused on such issues as anti-corruption and climate change. In late 2022, Dina Boluarte, Peru's first woman president, replaced her predecessor, Pedro Castillo, who was arrested for attempting to dissolve Congress in what was widely perceived as an attempted coup.

Potpourri

Lima's coastline is often called La Costa Verde, or The Green Coast, because of the vegetation that grows along the sides of the oceanfront cliffs.

Lima sees little annual rainfall. The only precipitation comes from a heavy mist, called garua, that covers the city for much of the year.

Lima's newspaper, El Peruano, is the oldest Latin American newspaper still in existence. It was founded in 1825 by Simon Bolivar.

The 1919 census tallied 173,000 inhabitants in the metropolitan area of Peru's capital. Less than a century later, the number was greater than 8 million.

Chinese immigrants began arriving in the mid-19th century, and Lima's Chinatown, although modest, is the biggest in South America.

See & Do

Sightseeing

Lima's downtown, the colonial center, is home to the most interesting sites in the metropolitan area, and was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1991. Much of the center has been renovated to its former glory after years of neglect.

The heart of Lima's historic core is the Plaza Mayor, or Plaza de Armas, the government center since 1535. There you will find the Palacio de Gobierno (Presidential Palace), the Archbishop's Palace (notice the ornate balconies) and a stunning central bronze fountain.

Also bordering the plaza is the city cathedral, which holds the remains of Francisco Pizarro, the city's founder. Several other churches in the neighborhood are also worth a visit, such as the baroque Church of San Francisco, with beautiful hand-carved ceilings and extensive catacombs, and La Merced, the site of the first Mass in Lima. The nearby Barrio Chino, or Chinatown, merits a visit during lunchtime.

History buffs have more than their share of sights to choose from. Pre-Colombian pyramids such as Huaca Pucllana sit a few blocks from hotels in Miraflores and San Isidro. Centuries-old churches and colonial mansions dot the downtown area, and the Spanish fort Real Felipe lines the seafront of Callao. Pre-Colombian artifacts—such as gold, textiles, weapons and the always-crowd-pleasing erotic pottery collection—can be found in Lima's many museums.

Several charming neighborhoods are good places to stroll, people-watch or grab a bite to eat. Head to Barranco and make your way from the plaza past colonial mansions and down an attractive stone promenade to the Pacific, passing under the famous Puente de los Suspiros, or Bridge of Sighs, along the way.

Lima's green spaces are full of activity. Parque El Olivar in San Isidro, an olive grove planted by the Spanish, is a nice place to bird-watch or just relax. The larger and more active Parque de la Exposicion , which is downtown, is home to several good museums, weekly craft and food fairs, a small pond with paddleboats, a lighted fountain circuit, and numerous pavilions and theaters that play host to frequent events.

Lima's other sights include ancient adobe-brick pyramids, dramatic coastal cliffs and world-class museums. Most places can be seen on action-packed day tours, although many visitors to Lima will prefer to take their time and explore just one or two a day. There is more than enough to keep you busy for months on end.

Recreation

Straddling mountains, desert and coast, Lima has diverse recreational offerings. Although the beaches are polluted and the water cold, surfing and sunbathing are still quite popular. Some beautiful biking and walking trails can also be found in the hills and on the coast, and a quality golf course is right in the middle of the city. Horseback riding around the pre-Columbian city of Pachacamac is also possible, as is paragliding over Lima and the ocean.

Nightlife

Lima has a vibrant nightlife scene that spreads to almost every area of town. Nonstop partying goes on until the wee hours of the morning, but don't expect anyone else to be there if you show up before midnight.

Most tourists will stick to the large clubs and trendy bars in the tourist district of Miraflores, particularly those in Larcomar Shopping Center and near Parque Kennedy. Miraflores is also home to a smattering of popular expat bars.

The Bohemian quarter of Barranco has some of the most traditional and unique nightlife in the city. Penas (music houses) and one of the densest bar strips in the city can be found on the edges of Barranco's main plaza. Tourists have discovered this essential Limeno experience and, in some places, foreigners outnumber the locals.

Downtown nightlife is limited to a few seedy clubs and gay bars, and the area can be dangerous at night. There are, however, some historic bars in the city center, which are worth a visit for their old-school ambience.

Performing Arts

Lima doesn't have the performance art of larger Latin American cities such as Buenos Aires, but it does have its fair share of outlets. The stylish, grand old classic theaters are centered downtown, while smaller, trendier and more avant-garde places can be found in Miraflores, San Isidro and Barranco.

Penas, or folkloric music houses common in Peru, are located throughout Lima and are favorites of foreign visitors. The largest are downtown and in Miraflores, but the smaller, more authentic ones are in the Barranco district. Many include a buffet dinner and lots of drinking, which often leads to the audience climbing onstage.

Spectator Sports

Bull-fighting aficionados should note that Lima hosts a festival throughout October and November on Sunday. Other popular sports in Lima include soccer and horse racing. All have major venues in the city.

Shopping

Lima offers the best shopping opportunities in Peru. There are more stores and better variety, and much of it is within reach of the average tourist. The capital is home to large U.S.-style malls and international fashion boutiques, as well as vast handicraft markets selling goods from the Amazon, Andes and coastal areas.

Premium items found especially in Peru include alpaca sweaters and scarves, Cafe Britt coffee, pisco (grape brandy), silver jewelry and housewares. Many of these items can be found in the shops in hotel lobbies, malls, the airport, and throughout San Isidro and Miraflores.

Larcomar Shopping Center, located on the Pacific cliffs, is an ideal spot for visitors, as many of the shop employees speak at least some English, and it is a short cab ride from most hotels. Jockey Plaza, a bit farther out of the city, is bigger and has posh stores from international designers. Several large handicrafts markets are located across the ovalo in Miraflores from Parque Kennedy. Items from across the country can be found there at only a slight price increase.

Books are expensive in Peru, and books about Peru in English are relatively scarce outside of the airport or in Miraflores.

Shopping Hours: Most shops, malls and handicraft markets in Lima are open daily 9 am-8 pm, including Sunday and holidays. Some places in high-traffic areas, such as Jockey Plaza and Larcomar, stay open until 10 pm.

Itinerary

Dining

Dining Overview

Peruvian cuisine has been recognized as the last great world cuisine to be discovered, and nowhere is this more evident than in the capital of Lima. Everything from world-class fine-dining restaurants to hole-in-the-wall cevicherias can be found in the city, each adding its own unique touch to the culinary landscape.

Cuisine from every region of the country can be found in Lima. Search around and you can find everything from typical Amazonian recipes in a boutique cafe to cuy, or roasted guinea pig, in a food stall run by Andean people just relocated from the mountains (though any highland city is a better place to find cuy in Peru).

The best restaurants are in Miraflores, San Isidro and Barranco, the areas where many culinary tours focus. National and international chain restaurants are represented as well, but hidden down quiet residential streets and in hotels you will find trendy cafes, wine and tapas bars, and upscale restaurants. That is where you will find some of the best chefs in Latin America.

Barranco is home to several good local and regional restaurants that are famous throughout Lima. There are spots that serve criollo, as well as cevicherias, sandwich shops, watering holes and several fine-dining establishments. A bit farther south, in the former fishing village of Chorrillos (now a part of metro Lima), you will find some of the best seafood Lima has to offer. Crowds flood to the district every weekend, especially in summer, to indulge in the beachfront seafood shacks or long-running cevicherias.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than 20 soles; $$ = 20 soles-50 soles; $$$ = 51 soles-90 soles; and $$$$ = more than 90 soles.

Local & Regional

Seafood

Security

Etiquette

Peru is an almost entirely Catholic country and is highly conservative on many issues, although Lima is quite cosmopolitan and much more liberal than the rest of the country. Public displays of affection between homosexuals are frowned upon, despite Lima's vibrant gay scene.

Backslapping hugs (abrazos) are common between men and air kisses are frequent between women or women and men.

When interacting with Peruvians, it is not wise to bring up politics or government. Talking about the War of the Pacific with Chile or how much you love neighboring nations is also taboo.

If invited into someone's home, you should always take a small gift, such as a bottle of wine.

Politeness is important to Peruvians. Begin every interaction with a polite handshake and buenos dias or buenas tardes, even if you don't speak any more Spanish than that.

The title senora is intended for older or married women and might draw a dirty look when applied to a young woman. Use senorita in that case.

Dress politely when visiting holy sites such as churches. Women should not wear shorts or dresses cut above the knee, and T-shirts and shorts are frowned upon for men. Otherwise, fashion is relaxed enough for shorts and miniskirts in places such as Lima or in the Amazon region.

Personal space is a bit shortened in Peruvian culture, so don't be put off by people standing a bit closer than you are used to in queues or in other public spaces.

If you are meeting a Peruvian at a designated time, don't be surprised if they are as much as a half-hour late.

Personal Safety

Outside of Miraflores and San Isidro, visitors to Lima should not walk alone at night or take solo taxi cabs. This is especially true of downtown Lima, which is quite dangerous and impoverished despite significant restoration. Visitors should stick to well-lit streets and should not take taxis off the street, but rather call them ahead. Hotel taxis are generally the safest, although also the most expensive. Rideshare apps such as Uber and Taxi Beat are also very safe, and a good option for visitors.

Don't flash your expensive digital camera, cell phone or jewelry, and always keep an eye on your belongings. In crowded markets, beware of pickpockets, bag slashers, or even bold groups of bag snatchers. Always be aware of your surroundings. If you are in a taxi in a traffic jam, roll up your window, make sure the doors are locked and keep your bag out of sight; bag snatchers often target stationary vehicles.

Be very careful crossing the street—traffic does not stop at pedestrian crossings, and often run red lights.

Health

Most tourist areas in Lima are as safe and clean as any North American city, although some precautions should be taken. The tap water is never safe to drink. Bottled water is recommended and is served exclusively in restaurants. Food is safe in most instances, although some foreigners have gotten sick after eating at street stalls and small local restaurants. Avoid ice, salads, fruit juices made with unboiled water, and raw fruits and vegetables in these places. Most tourist-oriented restaurants are safe.

Visitors to Lima have little to watch out for. The temperature is mild, poisonous plants and dangerous wildlife are nonexistent, and tourist-oriented locations are generally quite clean. The most common occurrence is a mild case of traveler's diarrhea.

No vaccinations are required to visit Lima, but if you intend to visit Amazon regions, you may want to get up-to-date advice from your doctor before you go. The Centers for Disease Control (CDC) recommends hepatitis A, typhoid and yellow fever shots. Depending on where you are heading after Peru—check vaccination requirements—some countries require evidence of yellow fever vaccination if you have been to the Amazon.

You can obtain a list of English-speaking Lima doctors from your embassy or hotel. In an emergency, try calling the Clinica Anglo-Americana, which has English-speaking staff and is open 24 hours. Alfredo Salazar 350, San Isidro, Lima. Phone 1-616-8910 (appointments) or 1-616-8902 (emergencies). https://clinicaangloamericana.pe.

Facts

Dos & Don'ts

Do try ceviche. The combination of raw fish and seafood marinated in lime juice, onions, cilantro and chilies is said to cure hangovers and is quite delicious. It is traditionally eaten for lunch.

Don't talk about how much you like Chile. Peruvians are very proud of their country and are especially standoffish about Chile, which defeated Peru in the War of the Pacific more than a century ago.

Do try to speak Spanish. Locals appreciate foreigners who make even a bad attempt.

Don't belch after a meal (or any time). It is considered the worst possible taste.

Do carry toilet paper with you. Many public restrooms don't have any.

Don't flush toilet paper down the toilet. Like many countries in South America, the sewage system cannot handle it. Use the bins provided.

Don't use, purchase or carry recreational drugs. Though small quantities of certain substances are actually legal for personal use, most police officers may not be aware of that fact or of the precise amounts.

Don't be afraid to haggle. Peru is a haggling nation and foreigners are often overcharged anyway, so there's no harm in negotiating a better price with taxi drivers and at local markets.

Don't be offended if a Peruvian calls you "gringo," as it is rarely used in a disparaging or offensive way.

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: Citizens of Australia, Canada, the U.K. and the U.S. need passports but not visas. Proof of onward passage and sufficient funds is needed for all, although it's almost never requested. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure. The international departure fee at Jorge Chavez International Airport in Lima should be included in your ticket price.

Population: 8,852,000.

Languages: Spanish, Quechua.

Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic).

Time Zone: 5 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-5 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.

Telephone Codes: 51, country code; 1, Lima city code when calling from outside of Peru; 01, city code calling within Peru but outside Lima province; cell phones do not have an area code and simply begin with 09 (dropping the zero after the country code if it is an international call);

Money

Weather

The cool Humboldt Current that runs along the Peruvian coast keeps Lima's temperatures fairly mild throughout the year. It can get into the mid-80s F/high 20s C during the summer months of December-March, but for the rest of the year, the temperature rarely goes above 70 F/22 C or below 50 F/10 C. Rain in Lima is almost nonexistent and precipitation is generally confined to the less than 1 in/2.5 cm annually generated by the garua, a thick mist that penetrates the city during the winter months.

There really is no best time to visit Lima. If you want to surf or visit the beaches to the south, then go in the sunny summer, but the weather is mild and pleasant (if cloudy) year-round. The tourist high season is during the Northern Hemisphere's summer months of May-September, which coincides with Peru's dry season in the Andes and is the best time for camping, trekking and mountaineering.

What to Wear

Latin Americans are used to dressing up on most occasions, especially when going to restaurants, clubs, work and out in general. Suits are common attire among middle- and upper-class men and senior citizens, although younger generations are more relaxed and jeans are commonplace. Budget travelers and backpackers are sometimes looked down upon for their scraggly clothes, so having at least one nice outfit in your bag is recommended. Some restaurants and clubs have dress codes. Churches require a bit of modesty in dress; keep shoulders covered and shorts and skirts to the knee at least.

In the Andes, thick sweaters and outdoor wear are common among travelers, but Lima's mild climate allows for sophisticated and formal dress as desired. Shorts are rarely worn unless you are participating in athletic activities. A light jacket is necessary, except in summer.

Communication

Transportation

Lima's size and traffic can be intimidating, but getting around the city is easier than you might think. Most travelers who go to Lima avoid renting cars, as it creates more problems than benefits. Taxis and tours are the best way to see the city, and they are reasonably affordable. Taxis are absolutely everywhere and wait outside every hotel and tourist attraction. Popular apps such as Uber and Taxi Beat are also convenient.

Public transportation is a challenge for tourists. The small, crowded microbuses that fill every street follow highly specific routes and are used mainly by Lima's working classes. Adventurous tourists enjoy using public transportation occasionally and will find that the locals will try to help—if you speak Spanish.

Tours will take you to many of Lima's tourist sights in a day and can be booked through your tourist agency or hotel. They tend to be significantly more expensive than a day of taxis, but many people prefer them for less hassle and the benefits of an English-speaking guide.

Every neighborhood in Lima can be explored on foot and, in many cases, major attractions are located near one another. Most of the sights downtown are actually easier to get to on foot, as traffic during the day is at a standstill on nearly every street. In Miraflores, San Isidro and Barranco, walking is recommended to give you the chance to take in the parks and shops that line the streets. The problem is getting from neighborhood to neighborhood and to some of the outlying museums.