Overview

Introduction

Florence, Italy, is one of the most beautiful cities in the world—and for many visitors, it is the most splendid. While travel to the city usually centers on its attractions, including museums, palaces and churches that overflow with masterful paintings and sculpture, it is not limited to those destinations.

Visitors encounter the spirits of da Vinci, Dante, Boccaccio, Michelangelo and the Medicis, and the days of the Renaissance seem close at hand.

As the birthplace of the Renaissance, Florence combines unequaled beauty with centuries of history in a heady mix. Visitors' first glimpse of the Duomo is likely to take their breath away.

Florence is essentially a proud, provincial city, with a conservative mentality yet very liberal politics. Visitors can sense that its citizens pay a price for living in what has become, essentially, an open-air museum. Florentines—especially those who deal with masses of tourists daily—can be haughty and standoffish toward visitors. But there are many who will offer visitors a warm smile and a helpful gesture.

The vitality of this small city, the robustness of its cuisine, the enduring beauty of its architecture and the richness of its treasures cannot fail to educate, exhilarate and dazzle those who visit Florence.

Highlights

Sights—The Duomo (The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore) and its dome; Battistero di San Giovanni (the Baptistery) and its intricate doors; Palazzo Pitti; Ponte Vecchio; Basilica di San Miniato al Monte with the splendid view from the Piazzale Michelangelo; the tomb sculptures by Michelangelo at the Cappelle Medicee; the view of downtown from the rooftop of The Continentale hotel.

Museums—David and Michelangelo's other sculptures at the Galleria dell'Accademia; the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo (with the original door panels of the Baptistery); the Museo Nazionale del Bargello (with works by Cellini, Donatello and Michelangelo); the Uffizi Gallery; the Galleria Palatina and Royal Apartments in the Pitti Palace.

Memorable Meals—A massive, rare bistecca alla fiorentina at Il Latini; fritto del convento (Florentine chicken and vegetables lightly fried) at the superb Il Francescano in the shadow of Santa Croce's convent; any of the restaurants on Piazza Santo Spirito.

Late Night—A stroll around Ponte Vecchio, with the lights reflected in the Arno; jazz at the Jazz Club; hot beats and top DJs at YAB.

Walks—A leisurely stroll along the terraced paths of Boboli Gardens; walking through Cascine Park and its enormous Tuesday market; a sunset stroll from Piazzale Michelangelo to Ponte Vecchio; exploring the Piazza Duomo pedestrian zone.

Especially for Kids—The Museo Stibbert and its park; the Gozzoli fresco in the Cappella dei Magi in Palazzo Medici-Riccardi; the Duomo's bell tower and dome; Galileo's telescope in the Museo Galileo.

Geography

The historic city center of Florence, the Centro Storico, is where you'll find most of the city's monuments and attractions. The area was once encircled by medieval city walls. In the 1860s, when Florence was briefly capital of the newly formed Kingdom of Italy, the walls were replaced by large boulevards that today form a ring road (viali di circonvallazione) around the old city. The city falls naturally into two sections: the Duomo side of the Arno River, called di qua d'Arno, and—across the river—the Oltrarno side. (Oltrarno means "beyond the Arno.")

On the Duomo side, where visitors usually spend most of their time, Piazza della Signoria and the Duomo itself are grand, historic centers of religious and political power. The Oltrarno has its share of monuments such as the Palazzo Pitti and the churches of Santo Spirito and Santa Maria del Carmine, but it is less imposing and can feel more accessible. The last bastion of old Florentine popular culture is in the Oltrarno: The San Frediano neighborhood is still known for its artisans who handcraft shoes, restore furniture and practice goldsmithing, although their workshops are slowly disappearing.

A note about Florentine addresses: A street number such as 36/R means "36 rosso (red)," and 5/N would mean "5 nero (black)." All storefront commercial properties are marked with red street numbers (the coloring is usually worn off, making them simply stone-colored); residences have black numbers (sometimes they may look blue). Don't be surprised if the sequence of numbers is not continuous between the two colors: You may have 5/R followed immediately by 27/N. If there's no letter designation, the address is probably in the black sequence.

History

Julius Caesar established Florentia, the "flourishing one," in 59 BC as a military post along the banks of the Arno River, and Roman walls embraced what is now the city center. The city did not truly come into its own until the 12th and 13th centuries, becoming an independent republic in 1198. In this period, a few merchant and banking families began to distinguish themselves in the world market, establishing guilds and bringing international commerce to the city. The florin, named after the city, became a standard unit of currency in Europe.

During the 13th and 14th centuries, the Guelphs (supporters of the pope) and the Ghibellines (upholders of the Holy Roman Emperor) battled each other. After these factions faded into history, the Medici family of bankers ruled the city. Their courts employed artists, designers, architects, artisans, musicians and poets, fostering an explosion of artistic production that has shaped the city to this day. Their dynasty lasted, on and off, until 1737, when Florence came under the rule of Maria Theresa of Austria.

At this time, a pact was drawn up in Vienna to guarantee the longevity and integrity of the Florentine artistic patrimony. The masterpieces of the Austrian crown and the private collections of the Medici family were handed over to the Tuscan government. The agreement stipulated that no work of art could be taken from the enormous collection. It also emphasized that the priceless works would be showcased to attract visitors to the region.

Italy itself was unified in 1860, and Florence became the capital of the Kingdom of Italy from 1865 to 1870. (Rome later became capital of the Republic of Italy.) The city had several setbacks in the 20th century: During World War II, all the bridges were blown up except the Ponte Vecchio, and many buildings along the river were destroyed. In 1966, a particularly devastating flood swept through the city, causing an incredible amount of damage to buildings and artworks. (You can still find markers throughout the city that indicate the water level that day.) More works were lost or seriously damaged in 1993 when a car bomb exploded in front of the Uffizi Gallery. After all three events, Florentines quickly rallied to restore the city and preserve its vital Renaissance legacy.

Potpourri

Although there is no shortage of torture museums in Tuscany, Florentines were the first people in the world to outlaw the death penalty through the reforms of Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo in 1786.

The great medieval poet Dante Alighieri, author of the Divine Comedy, bitterly complained about the "shameless" Florentine women who freely showed their bare breasts in public. Rest assured, they don't do that anymore.

The "Stendhal Syndrome" (fainting from an overdose of art exposure) was first described by the French author Stendhal who experienced dizziness after visiting the church of Santa Croce.

Florence is extremely popular with language students because Florentines are said to speak the purest Italian.

The Uffizi is the busiest museum in Italy, with more than 2 million visitors per year. If you don't have a reservation, expect to wait many hours before you can enter.

After Oscar Wilde was arrested and tried in the U.K. in 1895, many affluent gay and lesbian British intellectuals flocked to Florence to enjoy the tolerant lifestyle there.

It is only mildly surprising that Florence was the birthplace of Pinocchio creator Carlo Lorenzini, also known as Carlo Collodi (but not in the Tuscan village from which he took his name). Another Florentine native was Realist painter John Singer Sargent, born to American parents in Florence in 1856.

Florence's leather and its beef steak, the famous bistecca alla fiorentina, come from the Chianina cow, a huge, pure white animal with large, expressive brown eyes.

See & Do

Sightseeing

Visitors rarely allot enough time for Florence, partly because until you've been there, it's difficult to comprehend how much there is to experience in the city. Any visit, brief or extended, should begin with the magnificent Duomo. Don't be content with admiring its stunning exterior: Go inside and gaze at the frescoes and take in the view from the top of the dome.

Afterward, check out the exquisite detail of the famed bronze doors of the adjacent Baptistery. The striking Palazzo Vecchio on Piazza della Signoria still functions as city hall. Take a tour and learn about the palace's integral role in Florentine history—as well as the reason for its unusual trapezoidal dimensions.

The most celebrated art museum in the city is the Uffizi Gallery, considered by many to be, along with the Louvre and El Prado, one of the most important museums in the world. The Uffizi has 13th- to 18th-century Italian and European masterworks—paintings by Botticelli, Hugo van der Goes, Titian, Rubens, Caravaggio, Raphael and Rembrandt, among others. The line at the Uffizi can get very long, so we strongly encourage advance reservations. Many hotels can make reservations for the Uffizi and other attractions for a small surcharge, similar to booking online in advance.

Another fabulous art museum is the Bargello, with its impressive collection of medieval and Renaissance armor, furnishings and sculpture—including Donatello's lion sculpture, the Marzocco, the symbol of Florence. The Accademia, near Piazza San Marco, is chiefly known for housing Michelangelo's David, although his many other sculptures there are worth the visit in their own right.

Cross the Arno on the Ponte Vecchio, which has spanned the river since 1345. The bridge still has shops and rooms jutting out over the sides—a common feature in the Middle Ages, although few examples remain today. The Vasari Corridor, which runs above the bridge, links the Uffizi with the Palazzo Pitti.

Sights on the other side of the Arno include the Palazzo Pitti, the archetype of all European royal residences and one of the best preserved, with beautifully decorated baroque interiors and the gorgeous Boboli Gardens on the hillside behind it. Be sure to see the Palazzo's Palatine Gallery, which contains 16th- and 17th-century paintings by Raphael, Titian, Veronese, Rubens and Van Dyck.

The fully furnished Royal Apartments date back to the last kings of Italy. Don't confuse the Palazzo Pitti with the Medici Chapels, which are connected to the Church of San Lorenzo—but they are also well worth a visit.

Recreation

Because the historical center of Florence is compact, there's little room for recreation besides a walk or jog in the park. You'll need to head for the outskirts to find many of the relaxing (or strenuous) activities you might be looking for.

Nightlife

Early summer evenings are tranquil—Florentines and visitors alike stroll the narrow streets with an ice-cream cone in hand, or sip aperitivi or in the piazzas. Although there are places to go as the night goes on, the town doesn't have a big local nightlife scene. The Florentine idea of a pleasant evening is a good meal, a pizza, an evening at the opera or visiting with friends at home.

The bars and discos that do exist generally shut down around 3 am and mainly attract young people, especially foreign students. In the past few years, some British- and Irish-style pubs have sprung up, and if you have energy left after a day of sightseeing, you may well enjoy yourself there.

Performing Arts

Because Florence isn't a large metropolitan city, its entertainment options are limited, with the exception of classical music. Jazz and ethnic music are slowly catching up.

A noteworthy classical event is the annual Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, which offers the best in opera, concerts and ballet, with performers from all over the world. It runs April-June at locations throughout the city. http://www.maggiofiorentino.com.

The Comunale also hosts a fall opera season September-December.

Major internationally recognized pop and rock bands frequently stop in Florence during their tours. English-language theatrical productions are rare, with the exception of occasional top-notch U.S. musicals on tour. In general, theater tickets are available from the theaters' own ticket offices. Most performances take place at Teatro Verdi.

The season for all sorts of local music, dance and theater starts in November and ends in May or June. Of course, summer is the domain of street musicians, whose quality may vary widely. Piazza della Repubblica and Piazza del Signore are typical spots to find a classical trio or an opera singer.

You may stumble across a chamber-music or opera concert just by walking into one of the town's many churches. Some of the best-known are the organ concerts given daily except Monday in the church of Santa Maria dei Ricci and the Orchestra da Camera Fiorentino in San Jacopo Sopr'Arno Church.

For concert listings, check the the local papers La Nazione or La Repubblica.

Spectator Sports

A major source of discussion among Italians is soccer—a topic they feel very passionate about. It's very much a part of Italian culture. Games take place on Sunday afternoons.

Another spectacular sporting event you shouldn't miss is calcio storico (historic football). These Renaissance-era football games—sometimes violent rugby-style games—are held in Piazza Santa Croce select weekends in June. Teams dress in traditional costumes. Tickets aren't required: Just show up early for seats on the bleachers. Visit the website http://www.calciostoricofiorentino.it/en for detailed information and history of the sport. Tickets for the finals (held toward the end of June) can be purchased through The Box Office. Phone 55-210-804. http://www.boxol.it

Shopping

The city of Florence has always thrived on its mercantile activity and still does today, even though you'll find that Florentine shopkeepers tend to maintain an air of stolid indifference. The city is a shopping mecca, for better or for worse: Just as some visitors feel overwhelmed by the wealth of artistic treasures Florence has to offer, others feel that the pressure to consume overshadows all other experiences.

Shopping at small, independently run Italian stores might be different from what you're used to. It is customary to greet the owner or shopkeeper with the appropriate buongiorno or buona sera as you enter. Italians treat their shops as an extension of their own homes, and you'll create a better shopping experience if you are friendly and responsive.

One great thing about shopping in Florence is that you can find a craftsperson to make just about anything you can dream up—from shoes to stationery, books, clothes and furniture. A local artisan can turn your dream into reality and it may not be as costly as you might expect.

An important shopping (or window-shopping) destination for any visitor is a stroll over Ponte Vecchio, where jewelers still exercise their trade behind fantastic and brilliant display windows. Leather goods are a great buy: Those with little time to search them out should head for the Santa Croce area. (There's a selection of leather souvenirs from an actual leather-making school inside the church of Santa Croce itself—they are well-made with tourists in mind, but can be quite pricey.) The stalls near the Central Market of San Lorenzo in Via dell'Ariento carry wares that are well-made and reasonably priced.

Anything made of colorful Florentine marbleized paper makes a nice gift or keepsake. Other popular souvenirs are antique prints depicting the city and the surrounding hills, classic posters from a museum shop and wooden Pinocchio dolls.

The markets of Florence display a vast array of leather goods, and most of it is quality Italian leather; however, there are some cheap imitations slipping in. Be sure to check all the stitching and seams. Remember that under current Italian law, buyers of fake goods are regarded as accomplices to a crime and can be fined on the spot for such purchases.

If you have the time and inclination, browse the shops on such streets as Via Calzaioli, Via del Corso, Via Roma and the upscale Via Strozzi, which leads to Via Tornabuoni, the Fifth Avenue of Florence. Fashion-seekers will find major Italian and European designers—Armani, Ferragamo, Versace, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Hermes and trendy Roberto Cavalli—along Via Tornabuoni and Via della Vigna Nuova.

Shopping Hours: Most shops are generally open in winter 9 am-1 pm and 3:30-7:30 pm; in summer, the afternoon hours are 4-8 pm. Some large department stores and supermarkets stay open during the lunch break, as do some shops in the city center. Certain types of shops, such as clothing boutiques, supermarkets and large stores, are closed all day Sunday and on Monday morning.

Itinerary

Dining

Dining Overview

Florentines, like people of other regions of Italy, are very proud of their cuisine. "Italian cooking" as such does not exist—Florentine, Roman and Milanese cuisines do. In Florence, you might say that the cuisine mirrors the character of the city's inhabitants: no-frills, solid and dignified.

Bistecca alla fiorentina is a traditional thick, high-quality, grilled T-bone steak served very rare. But steak was not a large part of the diet of the people whose culinary arts made Florentine cooking what it is today. The staple fare was stick-to-the-ribs, vegetable-based soups served with a drizzle of olive oil on top. Among the soups, two traditional Florentine favorites are pappa al pomodoro (tomato, basil and bread soup) and ribollita (bean and vegetable soup with bread).

Porcini mushrooms, a real delicacy, are a staple in risotto ai funghi porcini (risotto with porcini mushrooms), tagliatelle ai funghi porcini (egg pasta with porcini sauce) and porcini alla griglia (grilled porcini caps). And it would be a disservice not to elaborate on haricot beans when talking about Tuscan food. Classic preparations include cooking with fresh sage and tomato (fagioli all'uccelletto) or with sausage (fagioli e salsiccia). The prosaic sound of these dishes belies their irresistible flavor.

Tuscany is undeniably one of the greatest wine-producing regions in the world. Chianti is the most ubiquitous, although quality can vary. Deviation from Chianti's traditional recipe guidelines has given rise to a new regionally specific classification called "Super Tuscan" you should try. In addition to sampling the Chianti, you should not leave without tasting the exquisite and expensive Brunello di Montalcino or the more moderately priced, but very good, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

Navigating the seas of Florentine dining spots—from the inexpensive fiaschetteria to the pricey enoteca, from the ristorante to the trattoria and pizzeria—can be as bewildering as it is exhilarating. Once upon a time, the trattoria was an everyday establishment offering simple, hearty fare. Nowadays, because the charm of these places has acquired a price tag, a meal in a well-known trattoria may be just as elegant and expensive as one in a ristorante.

Pizzerias frequently offer a whole gamut of choices, from steak to fish, but it's worth remembering that the pizzeria's specialty is pizza—usually cooked in a wood-burning oven. In Florence, pizza is baked in large rectangular baking sheets, and you decide the size of your slice. Price is by weight.

The fiaschetteria and enoteca are specialized wine shops that frequently serve light meals, including sandwiches made with porchetta (roast pork), soup and crostini. If you'd like to try a takeout specialty and are not too squeamish, try a lampredotto or tripe sandwich from one of the tripe stands (trippaic) in the markets of San Lorenzo, San Ambrogio or Il Porcellino.

The trend for people who work in the city to have lunch near their workplace rather than at home has meant a surge in inexpensive lunch places. Paradoxically, the same restaurant may offer the identical menu for dinner that it does for lunch, but at double the price. Also, in order to be competitive at lunchtime, elegant cafes will provide a splendid buffet lunch for the same price as their scruffier counterparts.

Italians don't usually bother with breakfast (apart from a cappuccino and maybe a pastry). However, some of the hipper bars and restaurants now offer what they call an English or American breakfast or even an American-style Sunday brunch.

Most restaurants open for lunch noon-2:30 pm, with the rush 1-2 pm. Dinner hours begin at 7 pm at the very earliest (more typically at 7:30 pm) and continue until at least 10 pm; many places stay open until midnight. Florentines dine punctually at 8:30 pm, so if you want to enjoy your meal at a quieter time or avoid lines, plan to dine a bit earlier.

Here is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay the following for dinner for one, excluding drinks and tip: $ = less than 20 euros; $$ = 20 euros-35 euros; $$$ = 36 euros-65 euros; $$$$ = more than 65 euros.

Local & Regional

Security

Etiquette

Contrary to the relaxed image many have of Italy, the Italian business world emphasizes formality and procedure. Get assistance from a local contact, go through proper channels, and always present yourself and your firm as well-polished and accomplished.

Appointments—Having an intermediary is essential. Without someone to make the appropriate contacts, you'll find it hard to get much accomplished. Your go-between can help schedule meetings, which should be set up well in advance. It is very difficult—nearly impossible, in fact—to call on a businessperson unannounced. Confirm your meetings a day or two before they're set to take place, but expect last-minute changes, and if you're meeting outside of an office, don't expect punctuality.

Personal Introductions—Greet others with a handshake and a slight nod. Titles are important: Use any professional titles that are supplied on introduction or, better yet, ask for a list of the participants and their official titles in advance of the meeting. Continue to use the title and last name unless you are instructed otherwise.

Negotiating—The pace of negotiations is slow, and final decisions are not made by lower-level functionaries. The chain of command in Italian business is both vertical and horizontal, and decision-making can take a long time. Last-minute demands can be made by a person who enters the negotiations late in the game. In fact, this is sometimes used as a negotiating tool. Remain patient and calm at all times.

Business Entertaining—Business dinners are common but will typically involve only a few key players. If you are hosting the dinner, ask your Italian contact whom to invite. If you want to pay, tip the waiter ahead of time and ask that the bill be quietly given to you. If you do not make such arrangements in advance, you will have to ask for the check; it will not be brought to you automatically.

Body Language—Italians typically converse while standing close to one another. They tend to gesture when talking, and handshakes can extend longer than in other cultures. There is an entire system of hand signs that they use all the time, though none are likely to be made inadvertently by a foreigner. More often, visitors to Italy will start to imitate the gestures used by the locals without understanding the precise meanings of the movements—a practice we'd caution against.

Gift Giving—Small but high-quality gifts are appropriate in some situations: Ask your intermediary for advice. If you are invited to a home, take flowers or chocolates. Exercise caution in giving wine: Many Italians are experts; if you're not, you may want to select a different gift.

Conversation—Very little is off-limits in Italian conversation, but avoid being critical of Italian society and culture, even if your host is. Soccer is a passion and an easy topic, as are art, travel and Italian culture. The less positive sides of Italy, including Mussolini, World War II and the Mafia, are probably better avoided.

Personal Safety

In Florence, as elsewhere, the best safety guideline is to use common sense. Florence is a lively place, and even on weekday evenings—especially during high season—the streets are relatively full until about midnight (much later on weekends).

Although there's no reason to avoid going out at night in the center of town, women traveling alone should take extra precautions. Avoid the Santa Maria Novella train station and the surrounding area at night: Transients congregate there. Do not cross any parks or large grassy squares, such as the Fortezza del Basso, in the dark.

Pickpocketing, unfortunately, is quite common. Pickpockets and purse snatchers often target tourists in crowded places, such as public buses, the train station or even churches. The Cascine street market is notorious. Italians often carry day packs backwards, with the pack in front of them where they can keep an eye on it. This way it is unlikely that a backpack can be slashed with a knife and the contents removed without the holder even being aware of the action behind them, a rather common way to separate tourists from their cameras or other valuables.

Watch out for packs of "gypsy" children who tend to come out of nowhere to create a small scene. While some distract you by harassing you or asking for money, another one of them—or a parent—may be making off with your wallet or purse. Keep a good lookout for people—even children—carrying a wrapped newspaper, a piece of cardboard or a raincoat on their forearm: That's a typical method of concealing the action. And keep your purse or bag tightly closed with single-minded determination.

Men should put wallets in either an inside zippered pocket or a front trouser pocket. (Gripping a wallet tells thieves where the wallet is located and makes things easy for them.)

Another thing to watch out for is purse snatchers on motorbikes: They may grab your purse as they ride by (more common on relatively isolated residential streets). A purse strap slung diagonally across your body, with the purse away from the road, will help you avoid being a target.

When stopping at traffic lights, watch for children cleaning your windshield. They are sometimes used to distract you while others clear the backseat and trunk of your car within seconds.

For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency. For the police, call toll-free 113; for the fire brigade, call 115.

Health

Hygienic standards are generally similar to those in other industrialized nations. The water is safe to drink, although most Italians prefer the bottled variety. The water at public fountains on public squares is safe—and a boon in hot weather. Food sold on the streets is usually fine, but trust your instincts. Only buy gelato advertised as made in-house from shops with a high turnover so you are sure that the stock each day is fresh.

Medical facilities are generally very good in Florence. English-speaking medical services are offered at Via Roma 4. Monday-Friday 11 am-noon, 1-3 pm and 5-6 pm, and Saturday 11 am-noon and 1-3 pm. No appointment is necessary. The service also makes house calls 24 hours a day all year. Phone 55-475-411. http://www.medicalservicefirenze.it.

The hospital, Misericordia di Firenze on Vicolo degli Adimari 1, also offers medical attention for tourists Monday-Friday 2-6 pm. Phone 55-212-222.

Pharmacies (farmacias) are located throughout Florence and are indicated with a red or green neon cross that is lit when the store is open at night. (The door will sometimes be closed; ring the buzzer for service.) Regular hours are Monday-Saturday 9 am-1 pm and 3-7:30 pm, with a few minor variations. Pharmacies open 24 hours are listed on the city-run website http://www.en.comune.fi.it/quick_links/pharmacies.htm.

Pharmacists in Italy can be of more help for minor ailments than pharmacists in the U.S. For major concerns, call the toll-free medical emergency number: 118.

Visitors to Italy are advised to write down the scientific or generic name of prescription medicines and keep them in a safe place during travel. If medicines are lost or a prescription runs out, making a trip to the pharmacy might be all you need to do to fill it.

During off hours and on Sunday and holidays, at least one pharmacy is open in every neighborhood. These are called farmacia di turno and are listed in the newspapers La Nazione and La Repubblica (in the Florence section). A window outside each pharmacy lists the closest farmacia di turno.

For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

Facts

Dos & Don'ts

Do wear comfortable shoes, as the pavements in Florence are a nightmare for high heels.

Don't ignore Florence's traffic rules—authorities have made sure that tourists won't escape the hefty fines.

Do visit the aperitivi bars of Florence in the early evening. They are the places to be seen at these hours, and most serve free nibbles of food with your drink, which is welcome when you're not used to Italy's later dining hours.

Don't—never, in fact—buy brand-name articles from street vendors, as they are bound to be fake. You may even face hefty fines when caught at the border or an Italian airport with a fake Rolex watch or Gucci bag.

Do enjoy the great view of Florence from the neighboring town of Fiesole or from the panoramic terrace of the Piazzale Michelangelo in the Oltrarno area of Florence, where the views are gorgeous and sweeping, particularly at sunset.

Don't order a cappuccino after a meal, as you will get a blank stare from the waiter. Italians only drink cappuccinos in the morning; after meals, they drink espresso.

Do visit the historic center at 5 am to enjoy an hour of almost tourist-free Florence.

Do learn some very basic Italian words, which are very much appreciated in the shops and restaurants. Say buongiorno for "good day" when you are entering a shop, and buona sera in the evening (after 3 pm). Say arrivederla or arrivederci (less formal) for "goodbye." Two other useful phrases are grazie (thank you) and per favore (please).

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: Citizens of Canada and the U.S. need only a passport for stays of less than three months. Check travel document requirements with your carrier before departing.

Population: 382,961.

Languages: Italian, but English is usually spoken in places most frequented by tourists.

Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic).

Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts. Two- and three-prong round plugs are used.

Telephone Codes: 39, country code; 055, city code;

Money

Weather

Summers are hot, with July being the hottest month. Temperatures can easily surpass 100 F/38 C, but 89-93 F/32-34 C is more the norm. Spring and fall tend to be mild, but don't be surprised to see the odd 80 F/27 C day even in April. A good time to visit is in late September or October—the sky is clear, the vineyards are in harvest, and the long, hot, muggy summer is over. Rain tends to be infrequent but heavy; it is most common in February and March and in the fall.

Although winter temperatures are not very low, dampness makes the cold penetrating. Winter temperatures can drop to just below freezing at night and warm up to 46-50 F/8-10 C during the day. Snow is rare.

What to Wear

Italians dress very well and are extremely fashion-conscious. For visitors who want to be taken seriously, neat, casual attire is appropriate for everyday situations.

Italians tend to find tourists who sightsee in beach or sports attire rather amusing. You'll feel more comfortable (and get more attention) shopping in expensive clothing stores or patronizing more refined restaurants if you're dressed well, but if you do any walking in Florence, opt for comfortable shoes.

Show respect for religious places by dressing appropriately. If you're wearing short skirts, sleeveless tops or shorts, you will not be allowed to enter, particularly in churches and cathedrals, where they might ask you to put on a covering or deny you access. Business meetings require a suit and tie for men and equivalent apparel for women.