London, England

Overview

Introduction

If you're visiting London, England, for the first time, you may arrive expecting a European city that overflows with pomp and pageantry. Few visitors to London will fail to be impressed by the grandeur and craftsmanship of such monumental sights as Westminster Abbey or St. Paul's Cathedral, but that's just the historical foundation of today's modern, vibrant city.

Cosmopolitan London has every visitor attraction from Bengali markets to designer boutiques to world-class art exhibitions to hand-written Beatles lyrics at the British Library. London offers the best of British food, fashion and cultural pursuits, but its multicultural population gives it an international flair, as well. London has a lively mix of languages, dress, festivals and bustling street life.

As for sightseeing, visitors to London can admire orchids at Kew Gardens, gaze on the crown jewels at the Tower of London, learn about millennia of history at the British Museum and witness spectacular views of the city from the London Eye Ferris wheel—all in a day. An interest in the arts or royalty may be what draws you to the capital of England, but you don't have to be an avid theatergoer or a history buff to enjoy yourself thoroughly.

Sporting and cultural events take place across the capital, showing off this festive city at its best. London is a place you will want to visit again and again, and each time you visit, the city will have something new to offer.

Highlights

Sights—Westminster Abbey; St. Paul's Cathedral; the Tower of London and Tower Bridge; Shakespeare's Globe Theatre; the view from the London Eye.

Museums—The Victoria and Albert Museum, especially its British Galleries; works by Turner at the Tate Britain; antiquities at the British Museum; art collected by the first Duke of Wellington at Apsley House; the Tate Modern; Impressionist paintings at the National Gallery and the Fragonards at The Wallace Collection.

Memorable Meals—Eclectic and delicious vegetarian fare at The Gate; pub lunch at the Salisbury in the West End's theater district; afternoon tea at the English Tea Room at Brown's Hotel; dim sum at Hakkasan; fabulous French cuisine amid quirky decor at Les Trois Garcons; all-day dining at The Wolseley; Indian cuisine at Tamarind.

Late Night—Jazz at Ronnie Scott's; dancing at Fabric; a performance in the West End; cabaret and cocktails at Circus.

Walks—Through Hyde Park or St. James' Park; along the Jubilee Walkway from Lambeth Bridge to Tower Bridge; any Original London walking tour; exploring the grounds at Kew Gardens; up Primrose Hill for a panoramic view of London.

Especially for Kids—Simulators at the London Transport Museum; the ZSL London Zoo; the giant, animatronic T. Rex at the Natural History Museum; the Science Museum; Warner Brothers Studios Harry Potter Tour.

Geography

London sprawls along both banks of the River Thames. Orientation is by boroughs (Westminster and the City are the central boroughs) or by areas, such as Piccadilly Circus and Covent Garden. Locals use postal districts, or "postcodes" (Mayfair, Oxford Street and Park Lane, for instance, are in W1—that is, West 1; Bloomsbury and part of the City are in WC2, or West Central 2; Central Kensington falls within W8; South Kensington and Knightsbridge are in SW7). Postcodes are also becoming the quickest way of finding places, as they can be put into smartphone maps and online journey planners.

Central London can be divided into the West End (theaters, shops, restaurants, entertainment); the City (businesses, law courts, ancient buildings and ultramodern architecture); and Westminster (government offices, famous landmarks such as Big Ben). Across the river is the South Bank, with its arts venues and concert halls. Slightly beyond the reaches of central London, some of the districts that have experienced regeneration include Notting Hill, W11 (on the fringes of the West End); Greenwich, SE10 (south of the river); Hoxton and Shoreditch in N1 and EC2; Eastside, E1 (just north and east of Liverpool Street railway terminus); and the Olympic Park area called Stratford City (with the new postcode E20).

History

Although there is some evidence of Celtic settlements along the Thames, London's first known permanent settlers were the Romans, who established a stronghold there in AD 43. The city walls (parts of which can be seen today) were built after Londinium was burned to the ground by the Iceni tribe in AD 60. Viking and Saxon invaders were next to put down roots. And it was the Viking warrior Canute who first declared London the capital of England in 1016, a position it has held ever since.

The London we know today began to take shape in the 11th century, when Edward the Confessor commissioned the original building of Westminster Abbey. Shortly after its completion, William the Conqueror launched the Norman invasion in 1066 and seized the English throne. His fortress formed the core of the Tower of London. In the 1300s, bubonic plague, called the "Black Death," wiped out about half the city's inhabitants, reducing its population to around 50,000. Under Tudor rule in the 16th century, however, London tripled in size.

Also during that time, the English church separated from Rome, and religious persecution was rampant. That century also ushered in one of London's greatest artistic periods: The reign of Elizabeth I was the age of Shakespeare and other artists whose work is still admired today. In 1666, the Great Fire destroyed much of inner London (a happier consequence is that it also put an end to the worst plague outbreak, the Great Plague of 1665). The ambitious rebuilding process, spearheaded by architect Christopher Wren, destroyed virtually all that remained of medieval London.

During the Industrial Revolution of the 19th century, London continued to grow and prosper under the reign of Queen Victoria. But just as the rich were getting richer, social divisions were becoming wider, with slums dramatically on the increase.

World War II brought devastation to London again—mainly during 57 consecutive days of bombing in 1940 (a period known as the Blitz). After the war, mass immigration from Britain's former colonies signaled the beginning of the multiculturalism seen throughout the city today. The 1960s were modern London's golden age, with much of the world seeking to emulate its swinging rhythm and freewheeling fashions and design. After a subsequent boom-and-bust period, there is now an unmistakable self-confidence in London, which prevails despite the world's current economic woes.

In honor of the millennium, a number of new landmarks were built, including the Millennium Bridge, a pedestrian-only route across the Thames, which leads to the Tate Modern art gallery, the huge Ferris wheel known as the London Eye, and the O2 Arena. More construction coincided with the city's hosting of the 2012 Olympic Games. With new hotels, galleries, stadiums and museums, the city is as vibrant as it has ever been.

Potpourri

Contrary to reputation, London's annual rainfall is less than that of New York, Sydney or Tokyo. However, London's problem is not total rainfall but the high number of days on which there is some rainfall.

In 2012, London became the only city to host the modern Olympic Games for the third time. It also staged the summer Olympic Games in 1908 and 1948.

Aldwych Tube Station makes frequent appearances in TV shows such as Sherlock and Mr Selfridge. It also sheltered people from the Blitz during World War II.

There was once a Tube station on the Central line between Tottenham Court Road and Holborn. The station is still there, but trains don't stop. Keep your eyes open and you may glimpse the ghostly platforms.

London's Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park is the site of the largest-ever planting project in the U.K., with more than 4,000 trees, 74,000 dry-land plants, 60,000 bulbs and 350,000 wetlands plants.

Cleopatra's Needle, on the Victoria Embankment near the Golden Jubilee Bridges, is one of a trio of Egyptian obelisks from the Egyptian city of Heliopolis that were made around 1450 BC. The others are in Paris and New York. None of them has any connection with Cleopatra.

The winter of 1683-84 saw one of the most famous of London's "frost fairs." From December to February, the Thames was completely frozen, and the town responded with an ongoing midwinter party in the middle of the river. At one point, a whole ox was roasted on the ice. Virginia Woolf writes about the fairs in her novel Orlando, published in 1928.

See & Do

Sightseeing

The sights of London embrace 2,000 years of history—the tramp of Roman legions, strolling players in the age of Shakespeare, plagues, royal pomp and circumstance, the Great Fire, the architectural heritage of the Georgian era, the squalid alleyways of Dickens' time, Victoria's great age of railways and trade, and the Blitz of World War II. In a city of more than 600 art galleries, 250 museums and countless places of interest, considerable planning is needed for sightseeing. The city's tourist attractions are sights you've heard about all your life. You won't have time to see them all, but some are absolute musts.

The Tower of London (dating from 1078) is always popular—get there early if you can, because waits of up to three hours aren't unusual in summer. Huge St. Paul's Cathedral, designed by 17th-century architect Christopher Wren, can take hours to wander through if you're in the right mood. The other famous church, Westminster Abbey, is where royals are crowned and married and England's notables are buried.

Across the street from the abbey is the clock tower attached to the Houses of Parliament; this is commonly known as Big Ben, which is actually the nickname of the Great Bell of this famous chiming clock that everyone watches (on TV) to see in the new year. Don't expect to see everything in a few hours at the British Museum—there are too many treasures to explore and too many other people. Art lovers will find paradise at Tate Britain and the Tate Modern, not to mention the National Gallery and the Victoria and Albert Museum. Fans of the literary arts should treat themselves to a tour of Shakespeare's Globe Theatre and the British Library. And for great perspective, take a ride on the giant London Eye Ferris wheel. Beloved by locals and visitors alike, it offers fantastic bird's-eye views of the city.

The River Bus service on the Thames—part of London's transport network—is a great way for visitors to venture farther afield. Kew Gardens (officially, Royal Botanic Gardens Kew) and Hampton Court Palace are accessible by river from Westminster Pier. Immerse yourself in tranquility at the former, royal prosperity at the latter. You can also get boats in the other direction to Tower Bridge and Greenwich.

If you've seen all the major sights or just want to escape the crowds for a while, visit the Dulwich Picture Gallery, Sir John Soane's museum or 18 Stafford Terrace. They're some of our favorite off-the-beaten-track spots in the city.

To make the most of your visit, consider buying a London Pass. Valid for one to six days (with prices £49-£81 adults without transport, £58-£199 with transport), it offers free entry to more than 60 London attractions, including the Tower of London, St. Paul's Cathedral and Shakespeare's Globe Theatre. Phone 20-7293-0972. http://www.londonpass.com.

Recreation

From softball on Sunday mornings in the park to exploring the extensive London Cycle Network, kayaking on the Grand Union canal or horseback riding through Hyde Park, London has plenty of opportunities for visitors who want to be active.

Shopping

Whatever your budget, London's shopping experience is one of the best in the world. From world-famous department stores such as Harrods and Fortnum & Mason to lowly but lively street markets, you'll discover a kaleidoscope of possibilities. Antiques hounds and book lovers, in particular, will find the city a veritable paradise.

Oxford Street and Regent Street are the main shopping superhighways, but Bond Street is another favorite to browse along. The designer venues there attract big spenders. New Bond Street runs just south of Oxford Street; it becomes Old Bond Street—where prices are even higher—just north of Piccadilly. Another good spot is Kensington High Street, which offers a range of national chain stores together with more specialized shops. If you venture farther into South Kensington (Sloane Street, in particular), you'll find high-end boutiques and upmarket department stores.

King's Road in Chelsea is a place for the hip to be seen, browsing the numerous clothing and antiques shops. And parts of Notting Hill have shed their down-at-the-heels charms and now boast some of the city's most exclusive boutiques. For bookshops—new, secondhand and antiquarian—head to Charing Cross Road, between the Leicester Square and Tottenham Court Road Underground stations.

Farther east, the stalls and shops of Spitalfields market are a great place for unique and bespoke items from young designers that you won't find represented on the high street.

Shopping Hours: Generally Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm (till 7 or 8 pm on Thursday). Most major stores in busy shopping or tourist areas are open on Sunday, usually noon-6 pm, with many opening at 11:30 am for browsing. Thursday is late-shopping night for many stores on Oxford Street.

Itinerary

Day Trips

To Oxford. This university town's towering spires pull visitors in. You can stroll through the inner courtyards of the centuries-old residential colleges (all 35 of them) and admire the different architectural styles, though access is restricted during exam times. But save time to browse the city's many quaint shops and fine museums. Oxford Express and Oxford Tube are inexpensive bus services that make the 50-mi/80-km trip from London to Oxford every 15-30 minutes from Victoria Coach Station, Marble Arch or Baker Street (takes from 90 minutes, depending on traffic). Oxford is about one hour by train from Paddington Station. http://www.visitoxfordandoxfordshire.com.

To Cambridge. Punt down the Cam between the immaculate lawns of Cambridge's famous old colleges, visit the Fitzwilliam Museum for some great art or just peruse some of the city's many great bookshops. Ornate medieval architecture is everywhere, notably in King's College Chapel. Cambridge is about 60 mi/95 km north of London, an hour or so by train from King's Cross. http://www.visitcambridge.org.

To Windsor. Take in the old town of Windsor, 25 mi/40 km west of London, with its sprawling castle and royal residence. The 800-year-old medieval castle, with sumptuous state apartments and a grand reception hall, displays a fascinating array of architectural styles. The exclusive Eton School lies across the river. You can tour the facilities late March-early October. Down a couple of notches in the pomp-and-circumstance department (and great for younger children) is Legoland Windsor, 2 mi/3 km from the castle. Take the half-hour train journey from Paddington Station (one hour from Waterloo). http://www.windsor.gov.uk.

To Leeds Castle. Set on two small islands in the middle of a lake and surrounded by 500 acres/200 hectares of beautifully landscaped grounds, Leeds Castle dates from the Norman era and is one of the best-preserved castles in Britain. Enjoy getting lost in the maze created by 2,400 yew trees, see birds from around the world in the aviary and gape at the extravagance in the Dog Collar Museum. Coach tours from London can be arranged, and trains leave from Victoria Station for the hour-long journey (a regular shuttle links the train station with the castle). The castle is located near Maidstone, Kent, 40 mi/65 km east of London. http://www.leeds-castle.com.

To Brighton. This pretty seaside town remains an English favorite. Exploring beyond the pebble beaches reveals a place far more sophisticated than fish-and-chips by the sea (although we do recommend you try them). The cobblestoned maze called The Lanes is filled with antiques shops and boutiques, and the Brighton Pavilion is a must-see of fantasy architecture and interior design. Brighton is 50 minutes by train from Victoria Station. http://www.visitbrighton.com.

To Bath. A UNESCO World Heritage site and arguably one of England's prettiest cities, Bath is famous for its natural hot springs and mineral baths. The old Roman Baths are the main attraction, and the Thermae Bath Spa offers the chance to dip into the only natural hot spa in Britain. There's also stunning Georgian architecture, beautiful countryside, gardens, an abbey, restaurants and more. Bath is 90 minutes by train from Paddington Station. http://www.visitbath.co.uk.

To the Cotswolds. If you have a car and the time, this is a must. The area, roughly bordered by Oxford, Gloucester and Stratford-upon-Avon, is beautiful and historic with small villages, thatched-roof cottages and venerable manor houses. We particularly like the picturesque Upper and Lower Slaughters, Cirencester (good Roman ruins) and Stanton (with its pub perched on a hill overlooking the tiny village). Many of the area's manor houses have been converted into luxury accommodations, but Snowshill Manor and Garden near Broadway is open to the public mid-March to October (phone 1386-842-814; http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/snowshill-manor). You can tour the Cotswolds in a day, but it is highly recommended to stay at least one night. http://www.cotswolds.com.

To Whitstable. A gem by the Kentish Coast and only 90 minutes from London thanks to the fast trains from St. Pancras International. There are just two main streets in the tiny center of town filled with antique stores, bookshops, seafood restaurants, a classic fish-and-chip shop and lots of charming seaside gift stores selling household items. Take a walk along the pebbles (shingled beach) and watch the spectacular sunsets from the Old Neptune pub, right on Island Wall. http://www.canterbury.co.uk/canterbury-district/Whitstable.aspx.

Local Tours

There are abundant choices for tours of London and the outlying areas. For the true do-it-yourself experience, we recommend three public-bus routes that cover some fantastic parts of town: No. 11, No. 23 and No. 159. Perhaps best of all is the RV1 (river-view service) route. This broadly follows the Thames and takes in 47 sights en route, including Westminster Abbey, the London Eye, Covent Garden, the Tate Modern, Tower Bridge and the Tower of London.

Pick up a free bus-service map at one of the Tube or mainline stations or the Greater London Bus Map (£1.50). You can ride the entire route to get an overview of the city or hop off as the mood strikes you. A few of the old London buses, the Routemasters, still operate daily at 20-minute intervals 9:30 am-6 pm on Heritage Route 15 (Trafalgar Square to Tower Hill) and Route 9 (High Street Kensington to Trafalgar Square). Phone 343-222-1234 for 24-hour travel information. http://www.tfl.gov.uk.

One of the best ways to see London is from the River Thames. Several boat companies run sightseeing cruises at regular intervals throughout the day between Westminster Pier and Tower Pier, traveling to Greenwich. Or travel upriver on the Tate-to-Tate riverboat that connects the two art galleries, taking in some of London's most famous landmarks along the way.

In summer, boats also run to Hampton Court. Among the sights covered in the commentary are the Houses of Parliament, St. Paul's Cathedral, Shakespeare's Globe Theatre and the Tower of London. Try City Cruises. Phone 20-7740-0400. http://www.citycruises.com.

Dining

Dining Overview

London is one of the premier culinary cities of Europe, a result, in part, of the restaurant boom that started in the 1990s. Londoners' interest in food continues unabated, and most of the "celebrity chefs" who have become stars of British television have restaurants there (Jamie Oliver, Angela Hartnett and Gordon Ramsay). Much of the best food borrows flavors and ingredients from around the world—though some so-called British eateries are stunning diners with their quality and innovation and use of local ingredients. Many popular restaurants are high on style, too—sleek and chic in renovated buildings or designer hotels. Old-fashioned pubs that have been given a fresh makeover are also in vogue. Even museums, themselves experiencing renewed popularity, now provide notable eating establishments.

Though variety is the key word, specific areas are best for specific tastes: Chinese is forever associated with Gerrard Street, W1, in Chinatown; for inexpensive Indian food, head for Brick Lane, E1; for Middle Eastern, try Edgware Road, W2. For something inexpensive and filling, head for a pub. For good value, look for pre- and post-theater specials at restaurants in the West End and some of the excellent fixed-price lunchtime menus at many of the city's top restaurants.

Dining out is expensive, but keep in mind that menu prices always include 20% VAT (value-added tax). It's a good idea to reserve a table at all but the most casual, humble restaurants. Most restaurants open for very specific lunch and dinner hours. Lunch is generally served noon-3 pm, and 7-11:30 pm is typical for dinner. Many restaurants offer two dinner seatings most evenings. Note that many of London's most expensive restaurants do offer an affordable way to enjoy their cuisine—a bargain-priced, prix-fixe lunch menu, often costing less than £25 per head.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, including tax but not tip or drinks: $ = less than £25; $$ = £25-£45; $$$ = £46-£70; $$$$ = more than £70.

Local & Regional

Great Queen Street

J Sheekey

Roast

Rules

Skylon

St. John

Cuisines

American

All-Star Lanes

Gourmet Burger Kitchen

Italian

Ciao Bella

Fifteen

Spanish

Barrafina

Security

Etiquette

Many people stereotype the British as being prim, proper and perhaps a bit stuffy. It's far from an accurate picture, but in most business situations, especially, you can expect a certain emphasis on reserve and conservative behavior. The British value politeness and courtesy, though humor is a staple of society. Maintaining a respectful, formal demeanor is likely to work to your advantage, at least until your business relationship is better developed. This includes e-mail correspondence where a salutation and sign-off are still expected (no kisses or smiley faces).

Appointments—Having an intermediary will likely provide easier access to companies in England. Schedule business meetings in advance and be punctual.


Personal Introductions—A handshake and a nod are common. Address people as they are introduced to you. Use your acquaintance's last name until instructed to do otherwise. Titles are important: If a person is introduced to you with a title, use it.


Negotiating—Meetings will have a formal atmosphere, especially early in the relationship. The decision-making process may be slower than what you're used to, but do not attempt to rush the pace. Expect the conversation to be direct, sometimes even blunt. However, the British have a wonderful, self-deprecating humor that will inevitably demonstrate itself.

Business Entertaining—Business lunches and dinners are common, although dinners tend to be more social than business occasions. Follow your host's lead in what topics to discuss. Dress conservatively. Some professions, such as media and fashion, are less formal than others, and smart-casual attire is the norm.


Body Language—Your British acquaintances will probably keep their distance with little physical contact during conversation. Most people are very conservative with regard to gestures and physical expressiveness.

Gift Giving—Gifts are generally not part of most business dealings. If you're invited to a home, a bottle of wine is expected; a gift of chocolates, flowers or liquor will be appreciated.

Conversation—The British often poke fun at themselves, but they may take offense at outsiders who criticize them. Be aware of the differences between England and the other areas that make up the U.K. (Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland). Though united politically, each has its own culture, and lumping them together or confusing them with each other will please no one. Personal questions are usually reserved for later meetings. If your English usage arises from the U.S., remember that some words have different meanings in the U.K.

Personal Safety

London is a safe city by most standards—you'll enjoy a far greater degree of personal security in parks and on public transport than in many other large cities. Petty crime can be a problem, however, and it's wise to be extra careful with your wallet or purse, particularly on public transport and in restaurants, pubs and bars—keep your bags with you at all times.

Also be careful in crowded tourist spots such as Piccadilly Circus and Oxford Street (a favorite of pickpockets—petty thieves who steal wallets and other precious items from handbags and rucksacks). Sad to say, but tourists are sometimes targets for petty crime. Although sometimes it's impossible, avoid looking too much like a visitor if you can—keep items such as cameras, guidebooks and maps out of sight. With a little planning and a general awareness of your environment, you should be all right.

At night it's best to avoid dark alleys or places where there are few people. Avoid unlicensed minicabs, which are not always safe. It's fair to say that the likelihood of coming face-to-face with crime is greater in some of the areas beyond the center, particularly to the east and south. Up-and-coming areas such as Brixton and Hackney are generally higher in crime, but this is mainly targeted at cars and buildings. Stick to the areas where the crowds are, however, and you shouldn't have any trouble at all.

Sniffer dogs and random searches have been introduced in strategic places, occasionally including the entrances to Underground stations. Be prepared to cooperate with these procedures, although they do not cause excessive delays to people's journeys. It would be wise, however, to allow a little extra time getting to and from airports. You should be vigilant at all times, report any suspicious activity and do not leave possessions unattended anywhere. If you do find yourself, or someone else, in trouble, then dial the emergency number 999, which will get you through to the police, ambulance and fire service.

For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

Health

Excellent medical and dental facilities are available, and the food and tap water are safe to consume. No vaccinations are required to enter the U.K. For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

In addition to the 24-hour emergency care available at hospitals, look for Medicentres, private walk-in doctors' offices located at major rail terminals (including Victoria and Waterloo) that are designed for tourists and commuters. The most central Medicentre is located at Victoria Station Concourse, London SW1V 1JT, and is open Monday-Friday 8 am-8 pm, Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Sunday 10 am-4 pm. Phone 20-7510-0314. http://www.medicentre.co.uk.

Pharmacies (usually called chemists) take turns staying open late, with lists for a given evening posted in pharmacy windows. However, even these close at midnight.

Visitors from the European Economic Area and Switzerland who have a European Health Insurance Card can receive health care free or at a reduced charge, but visitors from all other countries should take out travel insurance to cover their stay, as they will be expected to pay for services, medications and hospital stays.

Facts

Dos & Don'ts

Do buy an A-Z: The little map books are invaluable. But don't refer to them as an "A through Zee" unless you want to get laughed at: It's called the "A to Zed." There's a mobile version available to download at http://www.az.co.uk.

Do purchase a Visitor Oyster Card for flexible public transportation in and around London. This card allows you to take as many (bus, Underground, tram, light railway and inner-city train) journeys as you like without paying more than the cost of a daily Travel Card. Available at most Tube stations. http://www.tfl.gov.uk/travel-information/visiting-london/visitor-oyster-card.

Don't be afraid to ask for directions. Despite their demeanor, most Londoners, including the police, will be only too happy to share their knowledge of the best way to get from one place to another.

Do stand on the right side going up or down escalators—the left is reserved for people walking.

Don't expect any consistency in metric/imperial measurements. Temperature is almost always centigrade, but distance is always in miles. Petrol (gasoline) is bought in liters, but fuel efficiency is discussed in miles per gallon. Beer is definitely in pints (which is bigger than an American pint), but wine and spirits are measured in centiliters. Most food is weighed in kilograms, but people are still weighed in stones and pounds.

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: Passports but not visas are required for Australian, Canadian and U.S. travelers. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.

Population: 10,189,300.

Languages: English.

Predominant Religions: Christian, although all major religions are represented.

Time Zone: Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October.

Voltage Requirements: 240 volts.

Telephone Codes: 44, country code; 020,area code;

Money

Currency Exchange

You'll generally get the best exchange rate by withdrawing pounds at an ATM (using a debit or credit card). ATMs are plentiful and accessible 24 hours a day. You'll find them outside banks, in major shopping areas, at airports and at train stations.

Exchange rates at banks are typically competitive (charges run 1%-2.5%, sometimes with a minimum charge of £3). The exchange commissions at the airports are generally bad. Travelex (http://www.travelex.co.uk/uk) is a good name to look out for—the rates of some of the less-reputable exchange bureaus are nothing short of criminal.

Credit cards are accepted most everywhere in London, especially in tourist areas. Credit card machines use chip-and-PIN technology, and facilities for signature payments are not always available. Check with your bank or credit card company before you travel. Also note that some places do not accept American Express cards, so it's best to also bring a Visa or MasterCard, which are widely accepted.

Taxes

A 20% value-added tax (VAT) is levied on most purchases, including hotel and restaurant bills, but services consumed within the U.K. are not eligible for a refund. Nonresidents may receive a VAT refund on goods bought from shops running the VAT Retail Export Scheme. Stores taking part in the scheme will ask to see your passport and then give you a refund form (Customs Form VAT 407) to fill out in front of them (they may deduct an administrative fee, too). At the airport, take your forms to the customs desk and present them, as well as the purchased goods, to process the refund. For more information, call the VAT and Excise Helpline. Phone 0845-010-9000.

Tipping

For taxi drivers and in restaurants, tip anything up to 15%; 10% is the norm, with a little more for good service. Sometimes an optional service charge of 10%-15% (often 12.5%, but it's hard to figure that on the fly) is included on the bill at a restaurant, so check first. There's no tipping at counter-service establishments such as pubs, although if you feel it warrants it, an offer to buy the bar attendant a drink is often appreciated.

Weather

There is no season when the weather is predictably wonderful. In May and October, day temperatures can be cool, but they have occasionally been known to be very warm; June-September it's more reliably warm, although June can often be rainy. Average temperatures run 43 F/6 C in January, 72 F/22 C in July. Summer heat waves have become common, and August can be very hot and humid. Though it rains more in other parts of the country, London typically gets some rainfall half the days of the year—especially in winter. Take along an umbrella and sweater no matter when you go.

What to Wear

There are few formalities in London, where practically anything goes. Business occasions do call for a suit and tie for men and appropriate business attire for women. The most expensive restaurants and upscale hotel dining rooms expect patrons to dress appropriately, with jacket and tie sometimes required, but smart-casual dress is acceptable in most other establishments. Some nightclubs will turn you away if you are wearing sneakers and blue jeans. Take a sweater or light rain jacket even in summer, as the weather can turn chilly year-round.

Transportation

Getting to know London's sprawl takes practice. Get a good map of the city center, and for farther afield, a copy of A-Z (pronounced "A to Zed")—a well-known street directory and map sold at newsstands and bookshops—is a worthwhile investment. Also available online at http://www.az.co.uk.

London's vastness may overwhelm and its traffic induce despair, but central London is a walking city. Stroll through quiet tree-shaded squares, unexpected nooks and corners, and great parks. And if you don't feel up to walking (or if it's raining, which is not uncommon), the London Underground—which locals call "the Tube"—is efficient and easy to use. The ubiquitous double-decker buses are less agreeable to use, but at least give the benefit of seeing the city while you ride. For live travel updates, visit http://www.tfl.gov.uk.

You can also take advantage of bicycle hire from as little as £2 per day; look for the stands of blue Santander Bicycles and follow the instructions on the displays. For more information, visit https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/cycling/santander-cycles?intcmp=2295.

All of London's airports have frequent 24-hour shuttle services into the city. When traveling to and from the airports, allow some extra time to reach your final destination.

Public Transportation

For information and advice on reaching your destination by bus, light rail, Tube or water taxi, call the London Transport Authority's 24-hour information line or use the journey planner on the website (this can also be downloaded as an app to a smartphone). Service disruptions are common, especially on Sunday and during public holidays. Free public transport maps are available from information offices at train and Tube stations. Phone 343-222-1234. http://www.tfl.gov.uk.

Travelcards, which you can buy at Tube stations and many newsagents, can be used interchangeably for the Tube, buses, Docklands Light Railway and trains to outer suburbs and satellite towns. You can get them for peak or off-peak travel over one day, one week or one month. A one-day Travelcard allows unlimited travel throughout the network for £12. Tickets can be ordered in advance online or purchased at Tube station ticket offices and tourist information centers. https://www.visitbritainshop.com/usa/london-travelcard.

Most people use the Oyster card, a reusable smart card that allows you to pay as you go; it offers the cheapest fares for both Tube and buses and can also be loaded with a Travelcard. They can be bought at special ticket stops, Tube ticket stations and online. Special Oyster cards for visitors can be bought in advance. You will need to pay a £3 refundable deposit for the card itself. For more information, or to purchase a card, visit https://www.visitbritainshop.com/usa/london-visitor-oyster-card.

Taxi

Taxis are plentiful in London in the regulated form of the distinctive black cab (which is occasionally maroon or white or covered with advertisements). Hail them when the yellow "Taxi" sign is illuminated, or book them (at greater expense) by calling Radio Taxis at 20-7272-0272 (http://www.radiotaxis.co.uk). There are taxi ranks at major train stations such as Victoria, St. Pancras, Kings Cross and Waterloo, as well as all sorts of other unexpected places, such as in Tottenham Court Road and Russell Square. You can also now tweet a black cab by following @tweetalondoncab (and waiting for it to follow you back), and sending a direct message requesting a cab. http://tweetalondoncab.co.uk.

Drivers of black cabs are put through an arduous examination, known as The Knowledge, which ensures that they know every street and building on their turf. Fares are metered but complex, taking both time and distance into account. You may ask the driver for an approximate fare before getting in, but don't expect him to guarantee the price or to take you without turning on the meter. Most accept credit cards.

Licensed "minicabs" (usually just ordinary saloon cars) offer a cheaper alternative and may be easier to find in outlying areas. Ask for a local recommendation—by a hotel, for example. You will find a list of recommended firms on the Transport for London website at http://www.tfl.gov.uk. Minicabs may not be metered, and fares can sometimes be negotiated. Unlicensed minicab drivers sometimes seek passengers on the street in central London—it's illegal for them to do so, and you would be ill-advised to accept a ride.