Reykjavik, Iceland

Overview

Introduction

The world's northernmost capital, Reykjavik (which means "smoky bay") sits on the southwest coast of Iceland. Surrounded by a ring of mountains and Faxafloi Bay, Reykjavik is immaculately clean, and visitors will find that it's easy to explore on foot.

The capital city is full of artists, writers, musicians and filmmakers, as well as the rugged fishermen who ply the North Atlantic Ocean and unload their catch on the city's docks. Reykjavik is the political and cultural epicenter of Iceland, home to the nation's parliament.

Reykjavik remains one of the world's top travel destinations, with the number of annual tourists far exceeding the country's total population. With unrivaled nightlife and pristine nature surrounding the city, there has never been a better time to visit Reykjavik.

The economic upheaval the nation faced in 2008 devalued the Icelandic krona, but it was most harmful to locals. Visitors will still find this to be among the more costly cities in Europe.

Highlights

Sights—The white church, Hallgrimskirkja; the Sun Voyager sculpture overlooking the bay.

Museums—The National Museum of Iceland for a thorough overview of the country's history and culture; Reykjavik Art Museum for its consistently excellent rotating exhibitions; Culture House for its centuries old manuscripts.

Memorable Meals—Innovative cuisine in a cozy setting at Grillmarkadurinn; seafood at Snaps.

Late Night—Lebowski or Microbar for a quiet pint.

Walks—The walk up Oskjuhlid Hill to Perlan, through a small forest and mossy fields; a hike at nearby Esja Mountain.

Especially for Kids—Slakki Petting Zoo; interactive exhibits and 23 life-size models at Whales of Iceland.

Potpourri

Iceland opened the first hydrogen fuel station in 2003, and that same year it began running hydrogen-powered buses in Reykjavik. It is the only country in the world using electricity and heating from renewable sources (mostly hydro power).

Two-thirds of Iceland's entire population resides in Reykjavik.

The city has a habit of banning interesting things: Beer was outlawed 1915-1989; TV wasn't allowed until 1985; even dogs were banned 1924-1984.

See & Do

Sightseeing

The highlights of Reykjavik can be seen in two days, but a longer stay is recommended, if time permits. And be sure to take the time to talk with the city's residents; they're very friendly.

Because the city is old, streets are laid out in strange ways, and it's possible to become disoriented. Find a landmark, such as the church spire or the city pond, and keep it as a reference point.

The two main areas of Reykjavik encompass the harbor and the small pond. The harbor, teeming with boats and fishermen, provides a pleasant stroll and a glimpse into the life of a fishing nation. Stop in for afternoon tea at the Hotel Borg, just across from City Hall, and you may spot local lawmakers or even the president.

Recreation

Swimming

Laugardalslaug

Nightlife

Late-night revelers should cruise downtown Reykjavik.

Performing Arts

Film

Bioparadis

Music

Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Center

Theater

National Theatre of Iceland

Shopping

Bookstores

Bokin

Eymundsson

Mal og Menning

Galleries

Kirsuberjatred

Markets

Kolaportid

Shopping Areas

Kringlan

Laugavegur

Specialty Stores

Handknitting Association

Old Harbour Souvenirs

Spuutnik

Itinerary

Day Trips

To the Golden Circle. A drive along this famous route typically includes stops in Geysir, Gullfoss, Hveragerdi and Thingvellir. At Krisuvik, a 30-minute drive from the city, you can stroll along catwalks built over the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, a bubbling landscape of sulfur deposits and steaming geological activity.

To the Blue Lagoon. This famed spa is located just north of Grindavik. The atmosphere is surreal, and in the distance you can see industrial stacks from a geothermal power plant belching steam into the sky as you bathe in a crystal blue lagoon. The warm, silky water is the run-off from the power plant and has reputed medicinal benefits.

To Snaefellsnes. This peninsula, a little more than an hour's drive from Reykjavik, is incredibly gorgeous, with mountains, picturesque fishing villages, waterfalls and high cliffs covered in birds.

Dining

Dining Overview

The local food, consisting primarily of all types of seafood (salmon, cod, shrimp, haddock and dried fish) and lamb, is fabulous. Favorite dishes include hakarl (raw shark), graflax (cured salmon with herbs), hangikjot (smoked lamb), skyr (similar to yogurt) and hverabraud (rye bread baked underground). This bread can be bought everywhere, even in gas stations. With a local cheese, it makes a good lunch.

Local & Regional

Baejerins Bestu

Bergsson Mathus

Grillmarkadurinn

Ostabudin

Security

Etiquette

Icelanders are very proud of their country. For that reason, never tell an Icelander that you aren't happy to be there.

When you enter the home of an Icelander, be prepared to take off your shoes and expect to be offered coffee.

If an Icelander offers you shark meat, swallow it whole and then chase it with Brennivin, a bitter-flavored schnapps.

Nearly everyone in Iceland speaks English, so don't be afraid to strike up a conversation with a local.

Personal Safety

Serious crime is rare in Iceland, and the risk of terrorism is low. Theft is minimal in Reykjavik and almost nonexistent anywhere else in the country.

For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

In the event of an emergency, dial 112.

Health

For nonemergency medical assistance in Reykjavik, call 585-1300, or visit http://www.heilsugaeslan.is. Confirm coverage with your medical insurance company before your trip and, if needed, buy supplemental insurance. For urgent care, visit the emergency room at Landspitali University (phone 354-525-1700; https://www.landspitali.is).

In Reykjavik and other geothermal areas, the water may have a slight sulfur smell, but it won't hurt you (locals will reassure you that it's good for your complexion). It's safe to eat the food and drink the water in local restaurants or from the tap.

Call 112 to reach 24-hour emergency assistance. For nonemergency police information in Reykjavik, call 569-9020.

Facts

Dos & Don'ts

Do be aware that many secondary roads outside Reykjavik are unpaved. Use caution while driving, particularly during the winter months, when days last only a few hours, and weather and road conditions can change very quickly.

Don't expect to see Eskimos or penguins—they aren't in Iceland, much less Reykjavik.

Do take along waterproof clothing if you plan to go hiking.

Do take a steam bath at the geothermal pools, and do take along swimsuits. Swimming in the natural hot springs is a grand experience.

Don't think about taking your pet along. A six-week quarantine period is required before entry.

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: A passport is required of Australian, Canadian, U.K. and U.S. citizens for a stay of up to 90 days. Reconfirm travel document requirements with carrier before departure.

Languages: Icelandic. English is widely spoken.

Predominant Religions: Predominantly Christian.

Time Zone: Daylight Saving Time is not observed.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.

Telephone Codes: 354, country code; 5,city code;

Money

Currency Exchange

Iceland's currency is the krona (ISK). You can find the best exchange rates at local banks.

ATMs are located throughout the city, and nearly every shop, bar and restaurant accepts most major credit cards. Be aware of the foreign-currency exchange fee, sometimes as high as 3%, which is charged by most major credit cards.

Taxes

The value-added tax (VAT) in Iceland ranges 11%-24%. It's less for hotels, restaurants and some goods, but the taxes for hotel and restaurant services are not refundable. Refunds on goods taken out of the country are only applicable on purchases of more than 4,000 ISK. To get your refund at the airport, you must have the item purchased, the receipt and a "Refund Cheque" provided by shops that display the Tax Free logo. Go to the Landsbanki Islands booth (a bank) in the airport's departure area to receive your refund.

Tipping

Tipping is unnecessary. In general, bartenders and waitstaff receive good wages and don't expect tips. The only exception is at the end of a long tour, when it is appropriate to tip your guide and driver.

What to Wear

You'll need a warm jacket during the winter and a wind-resistant fleece during the summer, as the northern breezes tend to be chilly. The weather is notoriously unpredictable: It is advised to dress in layers. Sunscreen and sunglasses are important, especially when the sun is glinting against snow, which can be damaging to the eyes. A good pair of walking or hiking shoes is a must.

Many locals dress down on the weekends, but think European chic for weekdays. Business-casual is generally fine for meetings.

Transportation

Keflavik International Airport (KEF), 30 mi/50 km southwest of Reykjavik, is the main international point of arrival and departure. Domestic flights use Reykjavik Airport (REK), which is near the town center. Flying is a popular method of internal travel.

Parking is a challenge in Reykjavik, and a car is needed only when going outside the city—even then, city and regional buses cover the map.

Taxis are readily available in Reykjavik, but they're quite costly. Drivers are accommodating. The main companies are Hreyfill (phone 588-5522), BSR Taxis (phone 561-0000) and Borgarbilastodin (phone 552-2440).