Overview

Introduction

Manila, Philippines, is a city of contradictions. Residents often complain about the pollution, garbage and lack of adequate infrastructure, but many choose to live in the city for its upbeat tempo and laid-back atmosphere. The sight of beggars confirms the country's economic struggles, but a few minutes in the shopping complexes show happy-go-lucky people who try to find a day's pleasure, regardless of what tomorrow may bring. A rising middle class is fueling growth among consumers, both domestic and international.

Despite Manila's vulnerable economic conditions, the mall culture has thrived. At an average of four stories tall and spanning entire blocks, malls are the landmark of even the poorest district—and the pride and joy of the most affluent neighborhoods. Filipinos have made the malls of Makati, Ortigas and Manila their second home. Many go to them to watch a movie, dine at a restaurant or just walk around in the air-conditioned environment. Sunday Masses are even held in malls.

Manila is a city where people live for the moment. The heritage sites in Intramuros, the old bombed city of Manila, have been transformed into speakeasies, government buildings and public schools. The development of government museums is slow—residents are too caught up in present-day life to secure the past.

It is this carefree spirit that marks the way of life in Manila: Work can be put off for tomorrow. The city appears crazy, chaotic and even incomprehensible to some visitors, but it is these same elements that will allow them to let their hair down and unwind. It also helps that foreign currency goes a long way in Manila, offering access to convenience and luxury beyond what many tourists experience in other cities.

Highlights

Sights—A ferry ride to Corregidor Island or around the bay; a calesa ride around the old fortress of Intramuros; The Manila American Cemetery and Memorial; sunset over Manila Bay.

Museums—The Ayala Museum; Casa Manila; Fort Santiago; the National Museum.

Memorable Meals—Chateau 1771; great service and authentic dishes at Sentro; the atmosphere at Dencio's; Chimara's neo-vegan cuisine at Greenbelt 3.

Late Night—The Eastwood City bar strip; Greenbelt 2 bar strip on a Friday or Saturday night; Malate's Remedios Circle, surrounded by bars and restaurants; Tomas Morate Avenue's rows of restaurants for a late-night meal.

Walks—Various walking tours of Carlos Celdran; a stroll through Rizal Park; visits to the Manila Cathedral and San Agustin Church in Intramuros.

Especially for Kids—Hands-on activities at the Ayala Museum; the Science Discovery Center, ice skating rink or IMAX theater at SM Mall of Asia.

Geography

Manila is actually made up of 13 cities and four municipalities that President Ferdinand Marcos placed under one urban umbrella in the 1970s. Many of the municipalities were granted city status and are now bustling beehives of commerce and industry.

The Pasig River connects the Laguna de Bay at the south with Manila Bay and the South China Sea. The river was once crystal clear with lilies adorning it, but it is now dull brown.

Manila lies on the west coast of the Philippine island of Luzon, the largest of the archipelago's three major land bodies (the other two are Visayas and Mindanao). From north to south, Navotas, Manila proper (the capital during the Spanish era), Pasay City, Paranaque City and Las Pinas lie along Manila Bay. Old Manila is defined by a breathtaking view of the bay, the presidential palace and other government buildings, as well as the landmarks of Rizal Park and Intramuros. Pier 15, where most foreign ships dock, is found in the south harbor.

To the east of Manila proper are the three business districts, which can be reached on a 30-minute to hour-long ride: Mandaluyong City, Pasig City and Makati. Quezon City, north of Mandaluyong City, is a hub for businesses and government offices. However, the country's main financial district can be found in Makati City. There are two stock exchanges, one in Makati and one in Ortigas.

Farther south is Muntinlupa City, the rising district of southern Manila, thanks to corporations that have established themselves there and high-end malls such as the Ayala Alabang Town Center.

History

Maynila, as the first Malayan settlers called it, started out as a thriving trading center—merchants from ancient China, Japan and Thailand bartered goods there. Aristocrats from the nearby island of Borneo settled in Maynila and transformed it into a city protected by strong wooden palisades. The area remained protected by local rulers until the Spanish arrived in the 16th century. Raja Sulayman, a fierce Maynilan ruler, was able to thwart the first Spanish attempts to take over the land, but Spain's empire eventually won out.

In 1791, Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi completed his conquest of the Philippines and made Maynila—renamed Manila—the capital. The wooden palisades gave way to a stone-walled fortress protected by a battery of guns. The fortress became known as Intramuros, and only the most powerful, wealthy and purebred Spanish were allowed to live inside its walls. In the late 19th century, Filipinos, encouraged and inspired by a growing middle class of intellectuals, tried to shake off Spanish rule. The attempt failed, and Jose Rizal—the leader of the uprising—was executed publicly in Bagumbayan (now known as Luneta).

Under terms of the Treaty of Paris, Spain ceded the Philippines to the U.S. in 1898, and the islands remained a territory until 1946. Under U.S. control, some of Manila's most important buildings were constructed, including the Philippine General Hospital. The roads were improved, and an educational system was established.

During World War II, U.S. forces gave up Manila to hold their ground in Bataan where they, along with Filipino troops, fell to the Japanese. Liberation came in 1944 with the return of Gen. Douglas McArthur. But the infighting left Manila devastated. Entire buildings were razed, and the fleeing Japanese killed many residents.

From Manila's independence through the early 1970s, the country enjoyed a thriving democracy and economy. The atmosphere quickly changed when Ferdinand Marcos declared martial law in 1972, citing the Communist insurgency as a reason. Though the dictator was responsible for building many of the edifices and roads in the capital, he also institutionalized corruption in all systems of government, and the modern country is still recovering from the effects. After Marcos' main challenger, Benigno Aquino, was assassinated in 1983, popular opinion solidified behind his widow, Corazon Aquino, and she was elected in 1986. Marcos and his wife, Imelda, were forced to flee the Philippines.

Aquino was popular but not an effective leader: Her term was marked by a number of coup attempts. Ensuing leaders made some progress in alleviating the country's endemic corruption and poverty, but progress went downhill, and in 2001 President Joseph Estrada was forced from office in a massive nonviolent street protest known as the Second EDSA Revolution by those who accused him of embezzling millions. His successor, Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo, was able to partially restore investment confidence in the country, but her presidency was marred by several corruption allegations. Benigno Aquino III, son of Corazon and Benigno Sr., was elected to a six-year term as president in May 2010. Rodrigo Duterte was elected in 2016 as the first president from Mindanao.

Potpourri

In addition to the architectural splendor of the San Agustin Church in Intramuros, the remains of Manila's founder, Lopez de Legazpi, are also buried there together with other historical figures.

The Philippines has unique fabrics that are made from pineapple or banana fibers. Dita Sandico Ong, a local fashion designer in Manila, has popularized the use of such indigenous materials.

The University of Santo Tomas has a press that is one of the oldest in the world. The UST Press was founded in 1593.

Manila Bay is known not only for its sunset, but it was also the area where the famous Battle of Manila was fought in 1898 between the Spaniards and the Americans and Filipinos.

Manila's 12 million citizens occupy an area of 15 sq mi/39 sq km, making it the most densely populated city in the world.

Manila is actually a sprawling conglomeration of 12 cities and five municipalities, each an autonomous political entity but functioning as one city called Metro Manila.

Manila was originally named Ginto, which means the Land of the Gold. The name Manila comes from a mangrove plant with white star-shaped flowers called nilad. In the past, these plants grew abundantly along the shores of the Pasig River and Manila Bay, and so the city become known as may nilad, "the place where nilad grows".

In 1948, Quezon City was declared the national capital of the new Republic of the Philippines, thus robbing Manila of the title it had held since 1595. In 1976, President Ferdinand Marcos returned the national capital to Manila.

See & Do

Sightseeing

Sightseeing in Manila encompasses two categories: the ancient and the modern. Intramuros, the remnants of the walls of Manila when it was still the capital of the Spanish colonizers, is a must-see if only for the sense of history. Within Intramuros are several churches and museums worth checking out.

A short drive away from Intramuros is Rizal Park, a rectangular field that contains a monument to Jose Rizal, the Philippine national hero. Nearby you'll find Quiapo, a sweltering market, and Quiapo Church. Outside the church, fortune-tellers give readings and sell miracle herbs and charms that can allegedly cause pregnancies, enhance sexual potencies or cause someone to fall in love. North of Quiapo is Binondo or Manila's Chinatown, where immigrants from mainland China and Taiwan settled and built their homes.

Visitors can easily explore Intramuros, Rizal Park and the Makati area on foot. However, tour guides and reliable transportation will be needed for Quiapo, Chinatown and Binondo—the areas are marked by zigzagging alleys and clustered bazaars, and pickpockets are active.

Recreation

Golf, the occasional go-kart and badminton are recreation favorites in Manila. Recreation facilities are found in every mall. Beaches, boating and sailing, fishing and horseback-riding opportunities are best found in the nearby provinces of Tagaytay and Batangas.

Bicycling, hiking, walking and jogging are still possible in the city. The Cultural Center of the Philippines (CCP) complex in Pasay City is one massive area where, away from the pollution of the business districts, you can jog and bike, though use caution when visiting alone and avoid unguarded areas.

Luneta Park is another spot for outdoor activities. The Manila Bay strip, a long sidewalk alongside Roxas Boulevard from the CCP Complex to the U.S. Embassy in front of Quirino Avenue, also attracts joggers. Locals flock to the Bay Walk for the sunrises and sunsets along Manila Bay. At the SM Mall of Asia, you can walk, jog and fly kites near the bay.

Performing Arts

Performance-arts companies in Manila manage to stretch resources and cope with the lack of financial support from both the government and private sector. Filipino companies perform classical ballet, modern jazz, theater and Broadway musicals throughout the year.

There are very few performance venues—the Cultural Center of the Philippines offers its halls to its resident companies. Privately funded artistic companies generally have no permanent performance spots and tend to move around, shifting venues among the Meralco Theater (for major musicals), Onstage Greenbelt 1, RCBC Plaza, Araneta Coliseum and the Music Museum.

Shopping

Manila's shopping scene has improved greatly over the years. With importation rules relaxed, many reasonably priced goods find their way into the cosmopolitan malls that dot the metropolis. What used to be exorbitantly expensive goods are now comparable to prices abroad, thanks to retail chains that endeavor to offer bargain items to regular patrons.

Bargains are easily found in mass market malls. In fact, these malls are usually the best places to visit if you don't care to deal with the hassle of hot weather, rampant pickpocketing and the like. For the more adventurous and those interested in serious haggling, you can go to a flea market (known as tiangge). Bear in mind, however, that quality is sometimes compromised and a well-trained eye is needed to spot fakes.

Shopping Hours: Malls are generally open Sunday-Thursday 10 am-8 or 9 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am-9 or 10 pm.

Dining

Dining Overview

For Filipinos, eating is not just a culinary pleasure, it is a social event—a way to bond with colleagues over a business transaction or to strengthen the ties between old friends. You'll see groups of no fewer than three chatting animatedly over lunch, snacks or dinner in any restaurant. Filipinos have a hearty appetite and dine out often with family and friends. There is a wide gap between the rich and poor, however, and you may sometimes be aware of it when you find yourself in the most modern facilities while the poorer segment of society can hardly eat three meals a day.

Many restaurants are found at the malls. It is common for every mall to have a strip of restaurants, each offering a particular culinary specialty: Filipino, Thai, Italian and Vietamese are all represented. The SM Mall of Asia includes a fresh seafood market where you can choose your own ingredients to be cooked by nearby restaurants. Away from the malls, Tomas Morato Street in Quezon City has a nice selection of international cuisine.

Filipino food is served in almost every restaurant in town, regardless of its stripe or specialty. Local dishes include liempo (steamed spare ribs), lechon (spit-fire roasted pork), kare-kare (a stew with peanut sauce and ground toasted rice), lumpia (an eggroll-like dish served in a golden-brown edible wrapping) and halo-halo (a drink of beans, fruit bits, milk, cream and sugar).

It is important to double-check with each restaurant about which credit cards are accepted, as the signs posted at the door may not be correct.

Filipino lunches are typically two hours long. Lunch hours are 11:30 am-2 pm, and then there's merienda or late-afternoon snacks, which happen 3-5 pm. Dinner is taken later in the evening, usually around 7-8 pm.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than P560; $$ = P560-P1,115; $$$ = P1,116-P2,785; and $$$$ = more than P2,785.

Local & Regional

Security

Personal Safety

Manila has its share of petty thefts and pickpocketing, but tourists are not specific targets for such crimes unless you are visiting a tourist area. The kidnapping of foreigners in resorts located outside Manila has caused some concern among embassies, but Manila itself remains intact and safe. Hotels, malls, airports and buildings in the business centers have increased security: People are routinely frisked, and bags are often searched.

Be wary of strangers, male or female, who befriend you in the streets. There are frequent reports of gangs who gain the trust of travelers, take them to tourist sites for a meal and spike their drink with sleeping pills. The victim awakens to find they have been robbed of cash and valuables.

Take commonsense precautions: Don't wear expensive jewelry or watches or display pricey electronic devices in public. Beware of thieves on motorbikes.

Health

Don't take any chances with the tap water (stick with prepackaged or boiled drinks). Most food in restaurants should be fine.

Malaria is endemic in rural areas—consult your physician about antimalarial measures, use locally available mosquito coils and take plenty of insect repellent. Vaccinations for hepatitis and typhoid are recommended. Tuberculosis is also common. Ask your doctor about vaccination options.

Skin infections can be a problem in the tropics—even the smallest wound should be disinfected and covered with a bandage. Manila has adequate medical and dental facilities, but take along all prescription medicine needed for the trip.

The sun can be very strong, so use sunscreen liberally and wear a hat. Don't forget a pair of comfortable walking shoes.

For more information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

Facts

Dos & Don'ts

Do try a Jollibee hamburger. McDonald's comes in second to this food chain because Filipinos prefer sweeter and saltier food.

Don't humiliate a Filipino in public. Filipinos take criticism personally.

Don't lose your temper. However frustrating a situation may be, it is always easier to deal with if you remain calm and composed. Filipinos do not like displays of anger.

Do show respect to everyone, regardless of their social class or age. Using the proper words such as the polite "po" and "opo" when speaking to elders will help endear you to Filipinos.

Don't drive in Manila unless you have been there long enough to know your way around.

Do watch the sunset at Manila Bay at least once.

Don't go out during strong rains unless you want to get stuck in floods or traffic.

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: Passports and proof of onward passage are required for Australian, Canadian, U.K. and U.S. citizens. Visas are not needed for a stay of up to 21 days. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure.

Population: 11,861,600.

Languages: Filipino (based on the Tagalog dialect), English.

Predominant Religions: Roman Catholic.

Time Zone: 8 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+8 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.

Telephone Codes: 63, country code; 2,city code;

Money

Weather

Manila is a humid tropical city with two climates: hot and wet. The dry summer season runs late December to May until the rainy season takes over in June. The best time of the year to visit Manila would be during the moderate time (September-November).

The Philippines lies in the middle of a typhoon belt, experiencing an average of 20 major storms annually. This leads to unpredictable weather patterns June-September, when the city can experience flooding. Carry an umbrella at all times.

What to Wear

Wear light clothing, especially if you aren't used to a hot and humid climate. Casual clothing carries over to the business environment. The traditional conservative business suit is too heavy and can lead to unnecessary and unwelcome sweating. "Formal" business attire includes a collared long-sleeve shirt with a tie or a barong tagalog, the light, almost-transparent shirt worn by men during official functions. Women in the business sector tend to dress more conservatively, with a light blazer or jacket complemented by a skirt or slacks.

Transportation

Because of perpetual traffic chaos, it is recommended that travelers either take one of the cabs that line up at malls or use the more expensive rentals. A Filipino driver who knows the city is a big help. The Metro Railway Transit is also recommended for smaller excursions around town.

The business districts can be explored on foot comfortably. Just be alert for potholes, strewn garbage and panhandlers. Walking around the city is not recommended during rainy season.